venez avec moi à Gordes

July 10th, 2012

 

Chef Morgan Gordes

 picking cherries in the valley of the Gods: venez avec moi à Gordes 

 It is 9:30 p.m. and the sun is setting, but not so quickly. The sun is taking its time; everyone is. It is difficult to put an end to a day filled with Provençal sun, the calming smell of lavender, and the song of the complacent cicadas. As I write, I see expansive green valleys filled with cherry trees below me. The sound of pea-gravel crunching under the waiter’s feet (as he brings me a Châteauneuf-du-Pape and something warm for my shoulders) is only a momentary distraction from the twenty birds swirling above my head trying to get in their last flight before heading to bed. I am in Luberon. I have eaten and explored my way through the day: jambon with truffles; cherries I picked off the trees;  fougasse lush with salty olives and olive oil; wild boar sausage; fresh chèvre bathed in crushed lavender and honey, aïoli with perfectly steamed vegetables; rosés from nearby vineyards; hearty and robust reds from nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I think I found the land of the Gods and perhaps that is why the Romans had once claimed it as their own centuries ago. It am in Gordes and it is Gordes which inspired this week’s simple pleasure, cherries poached in fresh lavender and thyme. However, before you go there, come with me to one of the Luberon’s most beautiful villages: venez avec moi à Gordes. 

Chef Morgan Gordes Sunset

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ceries aux lavande et thym (cherries poached with lavender and thyme)

July 10th, 2012

Chef Morgan ceries aux lavande et thym (cherries poached with lavender and thyme)    

ceries aux lavande et thym
(cherries poached with lavender and thyme)

serves 6-8

what you need:

24-30  firm, ripe red cherries, stems removed (pits reserved)
2 cups water
2 tablespoons of lavender flowers (tied in cheesecloth)
4 tablespoons superfine sugar
2-3 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 piece of lemon peel

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Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

June 2nd, 2011

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée
(Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

stats:

yield: serves 6 (with compote leftover)

what you need:

11 ounces de-pitted fresh cherries
2 1/2 ounces superfine sugar
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon cherry brandy
3/4 teaspoon piment d’espelette
1/3 cup water

6 ounces of Abbaye de Belloc or another Ossau-Iraty Brébis de Pyrénées cheese

how to:

  • Prepare And Macerate Cherries.  Remove stems and pits from cherries.  Toss cherries with lemon juice, brandy, piment, and sugar and place in the refrigerator overnight.
  • Poach. Place macerated cherries in a saucepan over low heat.  Add water.  Poach cherries (between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit) until softened (about 10-15 minutes).  The cherries should collapse slightly but still retain but retain their shape.
  • Drain.  Remove cherries with a slotted spoon and set aside.  Turn the heat to medium-high and continue to cook the poaching liquid until you reach about 220 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer.  Remove from the heat and let the compote cool to room temperature.  Compote can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator.
  • Serve. Serve compote at room temperature with one ounce of cheese.

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)