tartare de daurade (sea bream tartare)

September 5th, 2013

chef morgan tartare

La Rentrée, l’art du cru, and what Parisens really eat

 recipe: tartare de daurade (sea bream tartare) 

If you have traveled to France in the month of August you know that the country really comes to a halt. As a friend aptly noted, “Ah… grandes vacances, where everyone is out and out of it.” C’est vrai (it is true).

For the month of August (although it is creeping into July as well) there is a customary and societal expectation of absenteeism. Everyone takes time to re-charge their battery and spend time with their family. This uniform expectation of doing nothing and getting nothing “accomplished”  I have grown to love as there seems to be no downtime due to texts and emails sent to your portable phone. When you accept that nothing — nothing — will just get done in August, it is very liberating (although as an American it took me some time to come to terms with the notion). You plan around it and guess what? Everything still gets done. French time.

chef morgan train

 

 My daughter took this photograph on the train returning to Paris from Nice. I like it because to me it says “au revoir” (bye, see you again) to the summer. 

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swordfish Mediterranean sauté

May 22nd, 2013

chefmorgan swordfih saute

puppy love & when to cook and tell . . . 

swordfish Mediterranean sauté

I am over the moon about the summer stone fruit which has arrived in the markets. However, I must admit that I am still clinging to the fava beans and English peas which are declining in number as summer rapidly approaches. While picking out fava beans at the McGrath Family Farm stand at the Sasnta Monica Farmer’s Market, it was there I fell in love. I could not help myself. It was this instant affection with inspired this week’s simple pleasure: swordfish Mediterranean sauté. Read the rest of this entry »

harvest minestrone with autumn vegetables and farro

November 9th, 2012

 harvest minestrone with autumn vegetables and farro   

 harvest minestrone with autumn vegetables and farro

serves 4
330 calories (per 4 ounce serving)

what you need:

soup
1 tablespoon olive oil 
½ cup lardons (or diced pancetta)
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 celery stalks, diced 
½ cup diced carrots (various colors) 
½ cup diced parsnips
½ cup diced onions 
½ teaspoon piment d’espelette
½ cup diced winter squash (butternut or kabocha) 

12 Crimini mushrooms, quartered 
1 can whole San Marzano tomatoes, chopped and drained
6 cups quality chicken stock (or bottled water)
1 bouquet garni (fresh Italian parsley, 1 bay leaf, fresh thyme sprigs) 
½ cup Perlato (pearled) farro
2 cups chopped Tuscan kale
kosher salt (to taste)
freshly black ground pepper (to taste)

garnish
minced fresh Italian parsley (as needed)
grated parmesan cheese (as needed) Read the rest of this entry »

a fast food you can run on and dive into: roasted red pepper tuna purée.

September 10th, 2012

 

 

a fast food you can run on and dive into:
 roasted red pepper tuna purée. 

The inspiration for this week’s simple pleasure is the concept of fast food. Food provided in a fast (and inexpensive) way. It is a genius concept created by the American entrepreneurial spirit to meet our desire for immediate gratification. The problem is that what is often “fast” — whether obtained by reaching in our pantry or driving through a drive-thru — is nothing more than empty calories or just plain bad for our health (our waistlines and ultimately our pocketbooks too). Moreover, because we think of food (and it is defined) as a nourishing substance, it begs the question: is what we are getting fast really “food” ?  However, you can have a fast snack or meal that is inexpensive, delicious and nourishing and this fast food, made with heart-healthy protein, is this week’s simple pleasure: roasted red pepper tuna purée Read the rest of this entry »

roasted red pepper tuna purée

September 10th, 2012

roasted red pepper tuna purée

stats:

makes 1 pint (16 ounces)
approximately 421 calories 
2 ounce serving = 53 calories

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