{"id":13104,"date":"2013-09-05T14:44:03","date_gmt":"2013-09-05T21:44:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/?p=13104"},"modified":"2013-09-13T15:06:28","modified_gmt":"2013-09-13T22:06:28","slug":"tartare-de-daurade-sea-bream-tartar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/tartare-de-daurade-sea-bream-tartar","title":{"rendered":"tartare de daurade (sea bream tartare)"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"chef<\/i><\/strong><\/p>\n

La Rentr\u00e9e, l\u2019art du cru,<\/i> and what\u00a0Parisens<\/i> really eat<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0recipe: tartare de daurade (sea bream tartare)\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

If you have traveled to France in the month of August you know that the country really comes to a halt. As a friend aptly noted, \u201cAh… grandes vacances, where everyone is out and out of it<\/i>.\u201d C’est vrai<\/em> (it is true).<\/span><\/p>\n

For the month of August (although it is creeping into July as well) there is a customary and societal expectation of absenteeism. Everyone takes time to re-charge their battery and spend time with their family. This uniform expectation of doing nothing and getting nothing “accomplished” \u00a0I have grown to love as there seems to be no downtime due to texts and emails sent to your portable phone. When you accept that nothing — nothing<\/em> — will just get done in August, it is very liberating (although as an American it took me some time to come to terms with the notion). You plan around it and guess what? Everything still gets done. French time.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

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\u00a0My daughter took this photograph on the train returning to Paris from Nice. I like it because to me it says “au revoir” <\/em>(bye, see you again) to the summer.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"chef<\/p>\n

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La Rentr\u00e9e<\/i>\u00a0is when things resume to the normal routine.\u00a0The end of grandes vacances. The end of summer. The beaches are quiet. The patio chairs in the south are empty.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"chefmorgan\"<\/p>\n

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\"chef<\/span><\/p>\n

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Country homes are closed up.\u00a0The days begin to get shorter.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

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The children go back to school.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Restaurants that are closed, reopen.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"chef<\/p>\n

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Businesses resume their business-like activities and t<\/span>hings do not seem to be as lost in the mail (but that may just be a coincidence).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In fact in this very week (if you have been following my visa story) I received the French translations I needed, I submitted the documents\u00a0and<\/em>\u00a0I received a \u201cnous accusons r\u00e9ception des documents<\/i>\u201d (not accusing me of anything but acknowledging the receipt of the documents),\u00a0and<\/em>\u00a0the syndic of my apartment building also \u201cconfirme que les travaux ont \u00e9t\u00e9 ex\u00e9cut\u00e9s \u00e0 ce jour<\/i>\u201d (confirmed that the worked of which I inquired had been done). Ah, see what happens when you give people time to recharge? <\/span><\/p>\n

Things are looking up and I remain optimistic that productivity will continue.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"chef<\/p>\n

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If you visited Paris this summer you may (or may not have) noticed that there is a cru<\/i> obsession. \u201cCru\u201d<\/i>\u00a0(pronounced “crew”) means \u201craw\u201d (cuit<\/i> means cooked). However, it is not a summer thing, this cru<\/i> obsession is here to rester<\/i> (stay).<\/span><\/p>\n

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For the last six years (if I had to put a number on it), Parisien<\/i> chefs have incorporated Japanese\/Asian flavors and preparations in their food. No longer are you limited to the 1st arrondissement<\/i> to obtain amazing sushi. This summer, crus<\/em> were everywhere and Thai basil, fresh ginger, and lemongrass were popular flavors. It is rumored to have started on the savory end with I\u00f1kai Aizpitarte, I am not really sure. With 40,000 plus restaurants and hundreds of talented chefs, I am not sure whom (or if only one person) can take the credit.<\/span><\/p>\n

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This influence is not limited to savory. P\u00e2tisserie Sadaharu Aoki<\/em>\u00a0 in the 6th arrondissement has long been one of my favorite p\u00e2tisseries<\/em> in Paris. There you will find classic French desserts reinvented using Japanese flavors (yuzu, green tea, cherry blossoms, etc).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Parisiens<\/em>\u00a0eat a great deal of fish.<\/i>\u00a0Seafood is delivered\u00a0every day\u00a0to the high-end\u00a0Parisien<\/em>\u00a0restaurants from the north and the south.\u00a0<\/span>Carpaccios<\/i> and <\/span>tartares<\/i>\u00a0are staples in many restaurants as well as bistros (which I know \u00a0people find shocking because if you think of a bistro you think of steak and fries and lots of sauce)<\/span>, even those that are not known to have a French-Asian\/Japanese identity with their food.\u00a0 My favorites for tartares<\/i> are Septime<\/i><\/span><\/a>, 114<\/i> Faubourg<\/i><\/span><\/a>, Bon<\/i><\/span><\/a>, and Cru<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0<\/i><\/span>Le Ch\u00e2teaubriand<\/i><\/span><\/a>, <\/span>La Soci\u00e9t\u00e9<\/i><\/span><\/a>,<\/i> and <\/span>Matignon<\/i><\/span><\/a>\u00a0use these <\/span>cru<\/i> techniques with respect to vegetables and fruit. The artichoke carpaccio with parmesan and balsamic glaze is one of my favorites (you can find it at the latter two).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

If you are not in Paris for La Rentr\u00e9e<\/i>, this week\u2019s cru<\/i> recipe will take you there because it is just like a tartare<\/em> you would find in Paris. No cooking. Perfect for the hot weather.<\/span>
\n A combination of fresh fish and refreshing, hydrating flavors — green apples, radishes, tomatoes, and cucumbers –it is tr\u00e8s Parisien et si bon !<\/i>\u00a0 The recipe is below.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0\"chef<\/p>\n

\u00e0 table<\/span> <\/i>(come to the table, it\u2019s time to eat)<\/span><\/p>\n

LM<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0\"chef<\/p>\n

tartare de daurade (sea bream tartare)<\/span>
\n<\/strong>The key and absolute requirement to a good tartare is fresh<\/em> fish.<\/span>
\n Buy fish from a fishmonger you know and trust and use the fish that day.<\/span><\/p>\n

If you cannot find sea bream<\/em>, you can use John Dory<\/em> or loup de mer<\/em>…<\/span>
\n all of these are a little sweet \u00a0white fish with firm flesh, not too thin\/flaky like sole<\/em> or too meaty like halibut)<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

serves 4-6 \u00a0<\/em><\/span>
\n active time: 20 minutes<\/em><\/span>
\n nonactive time: 30 minutes<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

4 fillets of daurade<\/i> (sea bream) without skin or bones (about 5 ounces each)<\/span>
\n 1 cup small diced Persian cucumber (peels and seeds removed)<\/span>
\n 1 cup small diced radishes<\/span>
\n \u00bd cup small diced heirloom tomatoes (seeds removed)<\/span>
\n 3 tablespoons minced green apple (peeled and cored)<\/span>
\n 3 teaspoons fresh minced cilantro (coriander)<\/span>
\n 2\u00bd-3 teaspoons quality olive oil<\/span>
\n 1\u00bd teaspoon fresh lemon juice<\/span>
\n \u00bc teaspoon piment d\u2019espelette (optional)
\n<\/i>\u00bc teaspoon quality sea salt (sel de Gu\u00e9rande<\/i>)<\/span>
\n pinch of freshly (fine) ground black pepper<\/span><\/p>\n

how to<\/span>:<\/span><\/p>\n