{"id":14328,"date":"2014-06-02T12:15:57","date_gmt":"2014-06-02T19:15:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/?p=14328"},"modified":"2014-07-16T11:00:23","modified_gmt":"2014-07-16T18:00:23","slug":"venez-avec-moi-a-dijon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/venez-avec-moi-a-dijon","title":{"rendered":"venez avec moi \u00e0 Dijon"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"chef<\/strong><\/p>\n

Paris Day Trip<\/strong><\/p>\n

venez avec moi \u00e0 Dijon<\/strong><\/p>\n

This post is dedicated to Sandy\u00a0Kiratsoulis and Barbara Bomes.
\n<\/i>May the new chapters in your lives bring forth beautiful experiences filled with\u00a0adventure. You will be missed.\u00a0<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

The desk sits in front of the window giving me a direct view of the stone apartments and Parisian rooftops across the way. Inspiring and distracting. I was supposed<\/em> to sit at my desk and\u00a0complete revisions on a\u00a0manuscript. Deadlines. However, as I looked at the rooftops facing me my thoughts drifted to the lengthy list of places I have yet to discover and I found myself getting up and down from my desk for things like making a snack for which I was not really hungry.<\/span><\/p>\n

Follow my blog with Bloglovin <\/a><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

On one such feigned snack break I discovered I was dangerously low on mustard. While I could have walked downstairs to re-stock my mustard supply with a wide selection of delicious varieties (or even made it, it is pretty simple make), I realized that it was my \u00a0sense for adventure that was hungry, not my stomach. I really did not need the mustard but the seeded was planted; the mustard seed that is.<\/span><\/p>\n

I had conducted no research and I knew no one there. From a gastronomical perspective, it would have been more productive to to visit in the autumn when there is a huge gastronomical fair and\u00a0vendage<\/i> (when the grapes are harvested) but sometimes you just need to explore without an agenda or expectations.<\/span><\/p>\n

I grabbed my manuscript and my camera and headed to Gare de Lyon<\/em>\u00a0texting a few friends on the metro for restaurant recommendations.<\/span><\/p>\n

An hour and a half later, I arrived at my destination inspired by my snacks. I was in Dijon.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

Dijon lies in between Lyon and Paris in eastern France in the Burgundy region. It was a Roman settlement and was the seat of power for the Burgundy region and the home to the Dukes of Burgundy from the 11th to 15th centuries.<\/span><\/p>\n

As you probably guessed, Moutarde de Dijon<\/em>\u00a0was invented here when Jean Naigeon used verjuice instead of vinegar in a mustard recipe. It is my understanding that the mustard is no longer manufactured in Dijon even though some factories remain.<\/span><\/p>\n

I arrived to\u00a0grey skies with a slight drizzle. I should have checked the weather forecast for Dijon and not been misled but the (rare) Paris sun.<\/span><\/p>\n

\".chef<\/p>\n

However, the weather added to the charm and presence of the Gothic architecture and sense of mystery.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

For going to a place not knowing anyone or anything about the city or how to get along, I could not have picked an easier place. The train station is next to the tourist information office. Greeted enthusiastically, I was given le<\/i> plan<\/i> (map) and some brochures on the recommended sites. Walking east about twenty feet is where central Dijon\u00a0begins. While the\u00a0<\/b>Diviahiti <\/i>(the free shuttle service) and buses\u00a0were right there, I preferred to walk.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a<\/p>\n

Porte Guillaume<\/i> (Guillaume Gate) leads you to Place Darcy<\/em> flanked on either side by shops and restaurants. I see a large hotel with a large clock at the top to my left and realize that that is where I would have lunch in a few hours. So far everything was shaping up nicely.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Le<\/p>\n

I stumble upon le Parcours de la Chouette.<\/i> <\/i>Again, this could not be any easier. Le parcours de la Chouette <\/i>is the owl\u2019s trail which is a series of brass plaques placed in the sidewalk. In the middle of each plaque is an owl (very cute I might add). The trail will lead you to the major historical sites in Dijon.\u00a0The\u00a0reason for the owl\u00a0in these brass plaques relates to la Chouette<\/em> carved into the stone on the side of the Notre Dame de Dijon<\/em> (yes, Dijon also has a Notre Dame). As well-worn as Saint Peter\u2019s foot in the Vatican, the owl is smoothed (and not really recognizable as an owl) due to fortune-seekers rubbing the night creature\u2019s stone figure with their left hand while making a wish.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Dijon<\/p>\n

I was\u00a0surprised by the high concentration of Gothic and Renaissance architecture in a seemingly small space.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

Gargoyles, crosses crowning gates and doorways, and buttresses; the architecture is really something to appreciate.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

One of my favorite things was the discovery was the toits bourguignons<\/i> which are glazed tile roofs in geometric patterns in colors of yellow, green, and black. I would turn a corner and find them in the most unexpected of places. The contrast with the heavy stone I found to be enchanting.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a<\/p>\n

Then there were the pale blue domes and half-timbered houses interspersed throughout the stone buildings. Normally, half-timbered houses are something you see in the Northern regions of France (like Normandy and Alsace).<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

I scoured Dijon in a counter-clockwise sweep and (contrary to the owl\u2019s suggested order).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"mus\u00e9e<\/p>\n

I first find L\u2019Ancienne Abbaye Saint B\u00e9nigne <\/i>which is the former abbey of Saint-B\u00e9nigne and an example of\u00a0 Romanesque and Gothic architecture. It has a rotunda crypt and now houses le<\/em> Mus\u00e9e Archeologique\u00a0<\/b><\/i>(<\/b>archaeological museum).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

Immediately south is the Cath\u00e9drale Saint-B\u00e9nigne de Dijon<\/em>\u00a0which\u00a0was built in 1007. It is a must see.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\u00e9glise<\/p>\n

Across the street and a little south I come across L\u2019Eglise Saint Philibert.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"mus\u00e9e<\/p>\n

I continue and \u00a0find le mus\u00e9e de la Vie Bourguigone<\/em> which has treasures of the past Dijon\u00a0including everything from mustard jars and copper cooking vessels to life-sized recreations of life in Burgundy as it was back then.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"mus\u00e9e<\/p>\n

North is the<\/span> Mus\u00e9e d\u2019Art Sacre<\/span>.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

Heading north I find the <\/b>Palais des Ducs de Bourgogone <\/i>(Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy). This is\u00a0where the Dukes resided until 1477 and it reminds you that Dijon was the captial of Burgundy. The Palace is now it is home to the Mayor of Dijon and houses other governmental offices.<\/span><\/p>\n

It also houses the Mus\u00e9e des Beaux-Arts<\/i> <\/i><\/b>which is one of the oldest museums in France and another must see.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"mus\u00e9e<\/p>\n

On the steps, actors give a 15 minute performance to a growing crowd.<\/span><\/p>\n

Inside, the museum has an expansive art collection which\u00a0includes Egyptian art to 20th century art in all mediums (drawings, sculptures, decorative arts). \u00a0The tombs of the dukes in the Guard Room (Salles des Gardes).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Of course one of my favorite things is looking at the large kitchen which had a well just outside the door. The kitchen has 6 fireplaces and the room has curved dome ceilng with a large hole in the center of the roof.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"<\/p>\n

A little west of the Palace,\u00a0where rue Rameu <\/b><\/em>ends, Place de la Lib\u00e9ration<\/em> begins. <\/b><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

Place de Lib\u00e9ration<\/em> is a large area in the shape of a half moon with benches for sitting and spontaneous water fountains to distract the kids. \u00a0The south side of the Place is lined with restaurants and shops. After the Place the street becomes rue de la Lib\u00e9rte<\/i> that is crowded with shops, a small Galleries Lafayette<\/em> and the Maille<\/i> bouquet for all your vinegar and mustard needs. If you want to buy some Cassis<\/i> or pain d\u2019\u00e9pice <\/i>for the road, you would find it here.<\/p>\n

\"mus\u00e9e<\/p>\n

\"mus\u00e9e<\/p>\n

North of the museum is \u00c9glise Notre-Dame de Dijon<\/i>. Notre-Dame is an example of Burgundian Gothic style and another must see when visiting Dijon.<\/p>\n

\"notre<\/p>\n

Although quite small, I enjoyed le musee Rude <\/i>which houses the work of sculptor Fran\u00e7ois Rude. In the choir substructure of the 11th century church you can see the Gallo-Roman Castrum<\/i> which was\u00a0built in the 3rd century.<\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

Since I also had a food agenda, I did not reach the 1614 Masion Hatel Vague <\/i>or the Cour du Parc <\/i>(dating to 1671) but I read that they were particularly noteworthy. Next time.<\/p>\n

\"mus\u00e9e<\/p>\n

the tasty stuff<\/strong><\/p>\n

While the architecture was impressive, I am ruled my gastronomic curiosity.\u00a0 Burgundy wine and regional specialities are on my agenda for my day trip.<\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

\"nonnettes<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Flavors of Bourgogne, besides mustard, include Cassis a black currant liquor used in everyting from Kirs to desserts is popular (If you would like a recipe for a Kir or Kir Royale, you can find it here)<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"<\/p>\n

Another regional specialty is Escargots de Bourgogne<\/i>, snails served in the shell stuffed and cooked in plenty of minced shallots, garlic, parsley, and butter.\u00a0Les oeufs en Meurette <\/i>(eggs poached in red wine and then the wine is used to make a rich sauce with vegetables and often served with croutons (toasted bread). \u00a0This was\u00a0a perfect choice for a grey day.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"<\/p>\n

Le Persill\u00e9 d\u2019Or <\/i>(or jambon persill\u00e9)<\/i> is a terrine made with pork shoulder cut into chunks and bound with parsley-laden gelatin, flavored with herbs (originally it was made with various parts of the pork head, but not many people do that anymore). It is traditionally made for Easter. I decide to dine \u00a0at\u00a0le cloque<\/i> for its beautiful garden setting and reputation for food. It did not disappoint and the service was first-rate.<\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

After lunch I visited more sites and went shopping for wine and mustard. Although I was still too stuffed from my lengthy lunch experimentation to eat anything else a Kir ap\u00e9ritif<\/em>\u00a0at Chapeau Rouge was perfect and I was able to learn about regional\u00a0digestives of which I had never heard.<\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

It was like that. A day trip sparked by my love of mustard. It is not whether I will go back to Dijon and further explore the Burgundy region, it is only a matter of when.<\/p>\n

LM<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"aLe Pr\u00e9 aux Clercs<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

13 Place de la Lib\u00e9ration
\n21000 Dijon
\n33 (0)3 80 38 05 05<\/p>\n

One Michelin star. Beautiful interior dining or romantic terrace dining on Place de la Liberation.
\n<\/em>Chef\u00a0Jean-Pierre Billoux. The toasted lobster is a favorite.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

\"chef<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

Les Jardins de la Cloche<\/strong><\/a>
\n14 place Darcy
\n21000 Dijon
\n33 (0)3 80 30 12 32<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Indoor and outdoor seating next to beautiful gardens. Large\u00a0wine tasting\/dining room in the cellar. Awarded Le Petit Fut\u00e9 \u00a0by Michelin. Flavors of Burgundy as well as seasonal menu. Delicious.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge-Restaurant William Frachot<\/strong><\/a>
\n5 rue Michelet
\n21000 Dijon
\n33 (0)3 80 50 88 88<\/p>\n

The restaurant boasts a chic, clean decor where you can enjoy Chef Frachot’s gastronomic take on Burgundy classics.
\nAwarded 2 michelin stars (2014) and <\/span>Le Petit Fut\u00e9. Set in the front room of a hotel.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"chef<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

You can find the <\/span>Maille Boutique on 32 rue de la Libert\u00e9.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

For more informtion on Dijon, begin here<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Paris Day Trip venez avec moi \u00e0 Dijon This post is dedicated to Sandy\u00a0Kiratsoulis and Barbara Bomes. May the new chapters in your lives bring forth beautiful experiences filled with\u00a0adventure. You will be missed.\u00a0 The desk sits in front of the window giving me a direct view of the stone apartments and Parisian rooftops across […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7,1],"tags":[1371,1373,1375,1369,383,1374,1379,1382,1381,1370,1376,439,1378,1377,1439,1372,1380],"class_list":["post-14328","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-paris","category-uncategorized","tag-burgundy","tag-cassis","tag-cathedrale-saint-benigne-de-dijon","tag-dijon","tag-france-2","tag-kir","tag-le-musee-de-la-vie-bourguigone","tag-le-pre-aux-clercs","tag-les-jardins-de-la-cloche","tag-moutarde","tag-musee-archeologique","tag-mustard","tag-notre-dame-de-dijon","tag-parcours-de-la-chouette","tag-paris","tag-place-de-la-liberation","tag-william-frachot"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14328","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14328"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14328\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14541,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14328\/revisions\/14541"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14328"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=14328"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=14328"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}