{"id":1476,"date":"2011-02-01T22:55:30","date_gmt":"2011-02-02T06:55:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/?p=1476"},"modified":"2011-02-10T21:43:47","modified_gmt":"2011-02-11T05:43:47","slug":"venez-avec-moi-a-rouen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/venez-avec-moi-a-rouen","title":{"rendered":"venez avec moi \u00e0 Rouen"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

venez avec moi \u00e0 Rouen<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\u201cNormandy at large…is, undoubtedly,
\none of the most beautiful tracts of country
\non this fair Earth, and repays,
\nwith accumulated gratifications.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

– George Musgrave
\n<\/span>A Ramble Through Normandy<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n


\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Musgrave was right.\u00a0 Take your own ramble through Normandy and start with Normandy\u2019s capital, Rouen.<\/span><\/p>\n

Je vous souhaite un bon app\u00e9tit !<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

LM<\/span><\/p>\n


\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

centrally located<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>From Paris, Rouen is an easy drive north on the A13. The train is a quick hour and twenty minutes from <\/span><\/span>Gare Saint Lazare<\/span><\/em> (24 euro roundtrip for a second class ticket) and it will land you in the Rouen train station, a 1928 architectural art deco masterpiece which is something to see in and of itself.\u00a0 The station is north of Rouen\u2019s center.<\/span><\/p>\n

From the train station, if you walk fifteen minutes southerly on <\/span>Rue Jeanne d\u2019Arc<\/span><\/em>, on your right (the west) is the <\/span>le vieux march\u00e9<\/span><\/em>,<\/span> place du <\/span><\/em>vieux march\u00e9<\/span><\/em>, <\/span><\/em>le Palais de Justice<\/span><\/em>,<\/span><\/em> and the<\/span> <\/span><\/em>Mus\u00e9e des Beaux-Arts de Rouen<\/span><\/em> (Fine Arts Museum).\u00a0 On your left side (the east) you will find the beautiful gothic <\/span>La Cath\u00e9tradel Notre-Dame <\/span><\/em> the<\/span> Bureau de Finances<\/span> <\/span><\/em>(the House of the Exchequer built in the 16th century and it where Monet painted part of his \u201cCathedral series\u201d in the 1890\u2019s), <\/span>Saint-Maclou Church, Place Mar\u00e9chal<\/span><\/em>, <\/span><\/em>and the <\/span>Parlement de Normandie<\/span> <\/span><\/em>(Parliament of Normandy Court House, built in the Middle Ages and the largest civil Gothic edifice in France). Like Paris, Rouen is divided by the Seine and has a \u201cright bank\u201d and a \u201cleft bank.\u201d\u00a0 Rouen\u2019s center is on the \u201cright bank\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

Rouen, described by Victor Hugo as \u201c<\/span>la <\/span><\/em>ville aux cent clochers<\/span><\/em>\u201d (the city with 100 spires), is centrally located in Normandy.\u00a0 A ten minute drive will put you in the country. <\/span> Lisieux<\/span>,<\/span><\/em> which surrounds Rouen, known for its Basilica of St Theresa and as a pilgrimage site, will give you a bird\u2019s eye view of Rouen.\u00a0 Honfleur and Deauville (known as \u201c<\/span>Paris plage<\/span><\/em>\u201d) are close by and the sites of the D-Day landings are just a little further, about 1 1\/2 hours by car from Rouen.<\/span><\/p>\n

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art & architecture<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Normandy is said to be the birthplace of impressionism.\u00a0 Rouen, in particular, served as inspiration for impressionist painters such as Monet, Pissarro and Gauguin all of whom lived in Rouen.\u00a0 In the summer of 2010, <\/span>le <\/span><\/em> <\/span><\/span>Mus\u00e9e des Beaux Arts de Rouen<\/span><\/em> had a special exhibition show casing work from these three artists.\u00a0 In addition, upper and lower Normandy collectively assembled numerous impressionist exhibits of photography, painting, music and theater events throughout the region.\u00a0 The seven month exhibition was enjoyed by the French from all regions of France as well as tourists (and in every restaurant in which I dined it was a popular subject for discussion).<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Once a walled city, Rouen remains a visual treasure with its gothic architecture and cobble stone streets, timbered and colorful houses, and the river and bridges dividing the city. \u00a0 Rouen was devastated by World World II, destroying many of its bridges and buildings. \u00a0 While much of Rouen was rebuilt, scars documenting the bombardment in 1944 (purposely) remain.\u00a0 For example, when the Parliament of Normandy was recently restored many places in the stone ifice were purposefully not filled as a reminder of the times Rouen has seen.\u00a0 Surrounding the <\/span><\/span>le vieux march\u00e9<\/span><\/em> <\/span>the cobble stone streets abound with chocolate shops, boutiques, bistros, p\u00e2tisseries, and gourmet shops. <\/span>Rue du Gros Horloge<\/span><\/em>, the oldest pedestrian street in France, is lined with such shops, leads you to the <\/span>Gros Horloge<\/span><\/em> (the big clock), with only the hour hand, and housed by a large tower built in the middle ages) and the gothic cathedral (which allegedly houses Richard the Lion-hearted’s heart). To the north lies <\/span>rue des Bons Enfants<\/span><\/em> (<\/span><\/em>a stark contrast to<\/span> Rue du Gros Horloge<\/span><\/span><\/em>) which is lined with crooked timbered buildings with crooked painted lines and gives one the impression that you have fallen down the rabbit hole.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Many famous French writers were either born in Rouen or were so taken by its charm that they made Rouen the subject of their work including: Guy de Maupassant, Pierre Corneille, and Gustave Flaubert (who wrote the then-scandalous Madame Bovary), and of course, Victor Hugo.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/strong><\/span>the markets & the food<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Despite the architecture, the history, the art, and Rouen\u2019s central location, it was the food which brought me to Rouen.\u00a0 Markets — open air and stationary —\u00a0 are plentiful in Rouen and the food reflects the city\u2019s architecture: something old, something new.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Le vieux march\u00e9<\/span><\/em>, the \u201cold market\u201d is in the <\/span>place du vieux march\u00e9,<\/span> <\/span><\/em>this is same area where Joan of Arc was <\/em>br\u00fbl\u00e9e <\/span><\/em>(burned) at the stake.\u00a0 There is a simple memorial on the site where she died and the Joan of Arc museum is immediately to the west.\u00a0 A string of restaurants with outdoor seating flank the site. <\/span>Le vieux march\u00e9<\/span><\/em> <\/span>is a roof covered-open sided market home to vegetable and fruit stands as well as fish mongers <\/span>(<\/span><\/em>les poissonni\u00e9s<\/span>)<\/span><\/em>, butchers (<\/span>les bouchers<\/span><\/em>), and cheese merchants (<\/span><\/span>les fromagers<\/span><\/em>).\u00a0 On the weekend there are additional vendors, selling \u201c<\/span>bio<\/span><\/em>\u201d (organic) produce.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Normandy is regionally seasonal and true to the boundaries of its own culinary treasures.\u00a0 For example, I was in the south of France and Paris days before I arrived in Normandy.\u00a0 In the south as well as Paris the markets abounded with zucchini (<\/span>les courgettes<\/span><\/em>), zucchini flowers (<\/span>les fleurs de courgettes<\/span><\/em>), asparagus\u00a0 (<\/span>l\u2019asperge<\/span><\/em>), and fava beans (<\/span>les f\u00e8ves<\/span><\/em>). However, in Normandy, zucchini and asparagus were sparse and zucchini flowers and fava beans were nowhere to be found. \u00a0 However, Normandy is so rich in its culinary gifts there is no reason to extend beyond the plenty it offers: flavorful mushrooms, potatoes, apples of every variety, pears, fresh greens, cheese and diary in abundance (see my December 30, 2010 blog on the food of Normandy for an overview of Normandy\u2019s food).<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Les fromageries<\/span> <\/span><\/em>have selections of cheeses and saucissons not available in the States, including a variety of local cheeses made from raw cow\u2019s milk.\u00a0 Regional specialities, such as Camembert<\/em> and Pont L\u2019\u00c9l\u00e9que <\/em>were soaked in Calvados, which gave the cheese a surprisingly gentle warm flavor and not overwhelming in the least bit, shocking given the alcohol content in Calvados.<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

gourmet and specialty shops<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

“de toutes les passions, la seule vraiment
\n<\/span><\/em>respectable me para\u00eet \u00eatre la gourmandise”.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

— Guy de Maupassant<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

(of all the passions, the only real respectable one for me is the gourmand). <\/span><\/p>\n

Two streets, both off the main tourist paths, became my favorite.\u00a0 The first is <\/span><\/span>rue Rondelle<\/span><\/em> <\/span><\/em>which is lined with fresh produce and meat and gourmet items including: <\/span> <\/span><\/em>Maison Monville le Palais du Fruit<\/span><\/em> (one of my two favorite places in Rouen for produce), <\/span>Famille Mary Miel et Nature<\/span><\/em>, <\/span><\/em>Maison Bizet<\/span>, <\/span><\/em>and <\/span>Oliver & Co<\/span>.<\/span><\/em> <\/span><\/em> On this street you can find everything from special honeys, p\u00e2t\u00e9s, sausages, cheeses, marinades, sauces, biscuits, as well as regional specialities made with duck, and lamb.\u00a0 The other street is <\/span>Place de la Pucelle<\/span><\/em>, where you can find <\/span>au Bois Chenu <\/span><\/em>(a charming, hidden restaurant) and Haulot<\/em><\/span> (which had not only beautiful and delicious artisan chocolates, but panettone that rivaled the panettone from Italy). \u00a0 There are also several bakeries and charming outdoor cafes.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Rouen is no exception to France\u2019s ability to take chocolate to an entirely different level.\u00a0 The flavors, shapes, and intricate designs are works of art in and of themselves.\u00a0 A few chocolate shops were complete stand outs, including: Chocolats Hautot, Auzou, Roy Home Chocolat, Saveurs et D\u00e9lices<\/em><\/span>, and Confiserie\u00a0 Heloin <\/em><\/span>(which had artisan confections almost too beautiful to consume).\u00a0 Auzou<\/em><\/span>, the most well-known throughout Normandy, has every kind of chocolate-praline combination you can imagine.\u00a0 Auzou<\/em><\/span> even had tiny chocolates in the shape of painter\u2019s palettes to honor the impressionist exhibit.\u00a0 Their chocolate <\/span>drag\u00e9es <\/span><\/em>with a unique crunch coating in between the chocolate and the almond were my favorite.\u00a0 Roy Home <\/em><\/span>had chocolates in the shape of fruit that looked like Marzipan.\u00a0 The lemons were white chocolate exterior with a dark chocolate citrus interior and the red apples had a chocolate Calvados-infused interior. Salted caramels came in all shapes and sizes including on a stick or wrapped individually or coated in chocolate\/pralines.\u00a0 However, for me the real treat was a hot chocolate spiced with my favorite pepper – piment d\u2019espelette <\/em>– at L\u2019atelier du Chocolat de Bayonne <\/em><\/span>(which actually originated in the town of Bayonne <\/em>in the Basque region of France).\u00a0 This chocolate shop specializes in the art of infusing various chocolates with spices from all over the world.\u00a0 Needless to say,<\/span> <\/span><\/em>j\u2019ai bien profit\u00e9 de tous les g\u00f4uters<\/span><\/em> <\/span><\/em>(I took advantage of the samples given me)\u00a0 and as I did so I was reminded of another famous quote of Norman-born Guy de Maupassant: \u00a0 \u201cl\u2019essence de la vie est la sourire des fesses rondes d’une femme \u00e0\u00a0 l’ombre de\u00a0 l’ennui cosmique<\/em><\/span> ” (life is the smile of round female bottoms, under the shadow of cosmic boredom). \u00a0 Thinking of the quote made me laugh.\u00a0 The chocolate made me full.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Rouen culinary specialties<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

In Rouen you will find all of the specialties that Normandy is known for; however, Rouen\u2019s specialty is its preparation of duck from\u00a0 the Seine Valley and if you can try only one thing in Rouen, try <\/em><\/span><\/span>canard \u00e0 la Rouennaise<\/em><\/span>. \u00a0Stuffed and roasted in a hot oven, pressed to expel the cooking juices from which a sauce is made and enriched with pur\u00e9ed duck liver.\u00a0 It is really delicious.\u00a0 Roasted or braised lamb from Mont St -Michel\u00a0 just off the coast of Normandy is a close second.\u00a0 Lamb tournedos garnished with<\/span> Excelsior<\/span><\/em> (a Norman triple cream cow\u2019s milk cheese)\u00a0 is divine. <\/span>Allez \u00e0 Rouen et mangez bien<\/span> (go to Rouen and eat well).<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Je vous souhaite un bon app\u00e9tit !<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/span>LM<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/strong><\/span>restaurants<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Restaurant Gill<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>8-9, quai de la Bourse
\n<\/span>76000 <\/span>Rouen<\/span><\/a>, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 71 16 14
\n<\/span>http:\/\/www.gill.fr
\n<\/a><\/span>Located on the right bank by the Cathedral.\u00a0 Haute cuisine with short menu with broad range (i.e., pigeon to seafood).\u00a0 Reservations required.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Au Bois Chenu<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>23 Place de la Pucelle
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 71 19 54<\/span><\/p>\n

Quaint, small restaurant. \u00a0 Reservations required.\u00a0 Menu is not complicated and includes traditional\u00a0 regional specialities (oysters, mussels, lamb, duck, pan-fried sole or steak with Normandy sauce).<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Pascaline<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>Le bistrot comptoir
\n<\/span>5, rue de la poterne
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 89 67 44
\n<\/span>pascaline.rouen@numericable.fr
\n<\/a><\/span>www.pascaline.fr<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Bistro where the locals dine. \u00a0 Reasonable prices, good service, and solid food.\u00a0 Centrally located and children welcome.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\n

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\n

les p\u00e2tisseries, \u00a0les chocolatiers et les boulangeries<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

L\u2019Atelier du Chocolat de Bayonne<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>111 rue des Carmes
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 32 10 70 31
\n<\/span>www.atelierduchocolat.fr<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Auzou<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>Fabricant de chocolats et macarons
\n<\/span>163, rue du Gros Horloge
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 70 59 31<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Boulangerie Bastien<\/span>
\n<\/span> <\/span><\/strong>29 Place Pucelle d’Orl\u00e9ans
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 32 10 00 79<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Chocolats Hautot<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>fabrication artisanale
\n<\/span><\/strong>33 Place de la Pucelle
\n<\/span>7600 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 32 08 65 03
\n<\/span>chocolatshautot@wanado.fr<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>Confiserie H\u00e9loin<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>98, rue des Carmes
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 71 02 94<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Roy Home Chocolat<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>73 rue des Carmes
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 89 76 19
\n<\/span>www.roy-home-chocolat.fr<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

speciality gourmet items<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>Le Palais du Fruit<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>9 Rue Rollon
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 71 89 99<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Oliviers & Co.<\/span>
\n<\/span> <\/strong>5 Rue Rollon
\n76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 32 \u00a010 56 60<\/span><\/p>\n


\n<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

tableware and kitchenware and supplies<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

le Torchon \u00e0 Carreaux<\/span>
\n37, rue du Bec
\n<\/span><\/strong>76000 Rouen, France
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 89 65<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Tout Pour la P\u00e4tisserie<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>56 rue Jeanne d\u2019Arc
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, Paris
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 71 48 32<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Saveurs et D\u00e9lices<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>22 rue petit de Julleville
\n<\/span>7600 Rouen, Paris
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 35 88 54 44<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Wenley<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/strong>15, rue Rollon
\n<\/span>76000 Rouen, France<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

For information on Normandy generally see www2.normandie-tourisme.fr.<\/a>
\n<\/span>For information on Rouen, you can visit the official site of the tourism office at:<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Tourism Office<\/span>
\n<\/span>(located close to the Cath\u00e9drale of Notre Dame)
\n<\/span>25, place de la Cath\u00e9drale
\n<\/span>76008 Rouen Cedex 1
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 32 08 32 40
\n<\/span>33 (0)2 32 08 32 40 (fax)
\n<\/span>http:\/\/www.rouentourisme.com
\n<\/a><\/span>accueil@rouentourisme.com<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

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<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

venez avec moi \u00e0 Rouen \u201cNormandy at large…is, undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful tracts of country on this fair Earth, and repays, with accumulated gratifications.\u201d – George Musgrave A Ramble Through Normandy Musgrave was right.\u00a0 Take your own ramble through Normandy and start with Normandy\u2019s capital, Rouen. Je vous souhaite un bon app\u00e9tit ! […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,336],"tags":[1443,68,377,378],"class_list":["post-1476","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-france","category-normandy-france","tag-markets","tag-restaurants","tag-rouen","tag-vieux-marche"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1476","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1476"}],"version-history":[{"count":55,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1476\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1778,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1476\/revisions\/1778"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1476"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1476"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1476"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}