{"id":1871,"date":"2011-02-24T08:17:03","date_gmt":"2011-02-24T16:17:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/?p=1871"},"modified":"2012-04-02T11:55:30","modified_gmt":"2012-04-02T18:55:30","slug":"pea-pusher-no-more-spring-peas-a-la-francaise","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/pea-pusher-no-more-spring-peas-a-la-francaise","title":{"rendered":"pea pusher no more: spring peas \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"pea pusher no more:
\nspring peas \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

The phrase \u201cpea pusher<\/span>\u201d describes someone who pushes their food around on their plate rather than eating it.\u00a0 If you are a parent chances are that you know someone who has \u201cpushed peas\u201d on their plate creating a road (or a series of roadways) to create the illusion that the peas or other green food product has been eaten. This week\u2019s simple pleasure, peas braised with soft butter head lettuce and pearl onions, will cease the veggie construction and turn your pea pusher into an eater of peas.<\/span><\/p>\n

Petit pois \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise<\/span><\/em><\/span> (peas cooked in the French style) is a classic french side dish. \u00a0 It is a reliable standby for adults and children. Simple to prepare the dish can be enjoyed throughout the year but it is particularly tasty in the Spring when peas are their sweetest.<\/span><\/p>\n

When buying fresh peas, buy them in the shell and use them within a couple of days.\u00a0 Peas loose their sweetness and freshness <\/span>rapidly.<\/span><\/em> You can also use frozen peas because\u00a0 they are typically frozen immediately after harvest when they are naturally sweet (however make sure that sugar is not listed as an ingredient). Do use canned peas because they have a \u201ccanned taste.\u201d\u00a0 You can try to minimize this taste by blanching, draining, and then saut\u00e9ing the peas to eliminate the excess moisture.\u00a0 However, if you have the choice, it is easier to go the fresh or frozen route.<\/span><\/p>\n

Use butter head lettuce for this recipe.\u00a0 Do not use mesclun or m\u00e2che because they are too delicate; large romaine and iceberg are too watery.\u00a0 Similarly, do not use any greens that are bitter (i.e., arugula).\u00a0 If you do not have\u00a0 pearl onions, you can use small cipollini onions or slice larger sweet onions (i.e., Maui or Vidalia).\u00a0 Do not use red onions or yellow onions because they are too harsh.<\/span><\/p>\n

I cut back on the butter and sugar that is traditionally used. A nominal amount of sugar remains to allow the braising liquid to thicken (you do not need the sugar as a sweetener if your peas are young). If you do not want to add the sugar, you can use a<\/span> <\/span><\/em>beurre mani<\/span><\/em>\u00e9<\/span><\/em> <\/span><\/em>(cold butter with flour mixed in it and added at the end) but you will be left with the flour taste in your peas. To me, the sugar is preferable.<\/span><\/p>\n

Lastly, do not overcook the peas and lettuce or they will turn an unattractive brownish grey. They should braise no longer than 20 minutes. The condensation which gathers on the lid and drips down combined with the general moist heat in the pan will cook the lettuce even though the peas and lettuce are largely above the water line. Do not stir the peas too much or too forcefully while cooking or you will have an unattractive pea mash.<\/span><\/p>\n

These peas are an excellent companion to poultry, pork, meats or fish. They are particularly good with lamb. However, whether enjoyed alone or as a side, they will be eaten.<\/span><\/p>\n

Je vous souhaite un bon app\u00e9tit <\/span><\/em>!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

LM<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

dinner music
\n<\/strong><\/span>(to the tune of the chorus in Train\u2019s song \u201cSoul Sister\u201d)<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201c<\/span>hey pea pusher
\n<\/span><\/em>aren\u2019t those veggies veggies
\n<\/span><\/em>on your plate you know…your tummy grows
\n<\/span><\/em>the way you eat so fast right now
\n<\/span><\/em> <\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

hey pea pusher
\n<\/span><\/em>you don\u2019t wanna miss
\n<\/span><\/em>a single pea … it\u2019s there …
\n<\/span><\/em>[indicating] your right<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

hey… hey… hey .<\/span><\/em>..\u201d<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\n

spring peas \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

stats:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

serves <\/span>8-10<\/span><\/p>\n

what you need:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>2 tablespoons unsalted butter
\n<\/span>12 pearl onions, peeled and trimmed
\n<\/span>1 small butterhead lettuce, core and stems removed, cut into 1 inch strips
\n<\/span>2 cups fresh peas (or frozen)
\n<\/span>bouquet garni (with 1 fresh bay leaf and Italian parsley)
\n<\/span>3\/4 cup water (or chicken stock)
\n<\/span>1 1\/2 teaspoon superfine granulated sugar (or agave syrup)<\/span><\/p>\n

kosher salt (to taste)
\n<\/span>freshly ground black pepper<\/span><\/p>\n

how to:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n