{"id":6231,"date":"2012-03-18T10:00:21","date_gmt":"2012-03-18T17:00:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/?p=6231"},"modified":"2014-01-14T22:37:04","modified_gmt":"2014-01-15T06:37:04","slug":"rose-water-and-saffron-pistachio-ice-cream","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/rose-water-and-saffron-pistachio-ice-cream","title":{"rendered":"rose water and saffron pistachio ice cream"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Nowruz<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0Celebrating spring and the
\n<\/span><\/strong>sameness of our ingredients:
\n<\/span><\/strong>rose water and saffron pistachio ice cream\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

I have Persian neighbors and friends in both Los Angeles and Paris. Soon (March 19 in Los Angeles, March 20 in Paris) the Persian community will celebrate Nowruz. Nowruz <\/em><\/span>is not a religious holiday <\/em>but it celebrates the first day of spring and the beginning of the Iranian calendar new year. Although my gardeners pruned my roses to the nub, this week a singular rose burst open as if it was announcing the onset of spring, and I thought of how rose water is used in both Persian and French cooking. From this rose bloomed this week\u2019s simple pleasure<\/span><\/em> just in time for Nowruz:<\/em> rose water and saffron pistachio ice cream.<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0Nowruz<\/em><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Similar to Los Angeles, the west side of Paris, primarily the 16th and 8th arrondissements<\/em> have large Persian communities. To me one of the best things about urban living is the exposure to other cultures and perspectives (I grew up in a very <\/em>small town so I did not have this advantage as a child). I particularly find the various culinary expressions and traditions to be inspiring (and delicious).<\/span><\/p>\n

In sum, Nowruz<\/span> i<\/em>s a celebration of life. It is a time for renewal of ourselves, our relationships, our hearts, and our homes. It is time to set things straight and start anew. I am not Persian but growing up we undertook this ritual every March which my mother referred to as \u201cout with the old and in with the new.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Fruit<\/a><\/p>\n

Nowruz <\/em><\/span>honors the moment of the passing of the old year into the new year. The celebration takes place around a table which is covered with several foods all of which symbolize something (reminding me of gros souper<\/em><\/span>, the Christmas eve dinner in Provence, which includes a spread of 13 Christmas desserts all dictated by tradition).\u00a0 The preparation for Nowruz <\/em><\/span>includes special meals and desserts and if there is not enough food preparation for Nowruz<\/span>,<\/em> after the twelve days of Nowruz <\/em>has concluded there is an Outdoor Thirteen Picnic <\/em><\/span>which includes more food (and a picnic)! I am thinking that this may be my favorite holiday: it celebrates humanity through food and what is not to love about that?<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0rose water in food\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Rose water is not only fragrant but signifies cleansing – perfect for celebrating the onset of spring. In France, rose water (and\/or rose petals) is often combined with fruit, used in ap\u00e9ritifs, custards, honey, cakes, sauces, desserts, ice, tisanes, rose vinegar, confiture (rose-petal jam and gel\u00e9es). In Persian cooking, rose water\u00a0 is used\u00a0 in loukoum, <\/em>nougat, raahat<\/em>, baklava <\/em><\/span>as well as many desserts made in preparation for Nowruz<\/span>,<\/em> including nun-e-khameyi <\/em><\/span>(cream puffs), nun-e-gerdui <\/em><\/span>(walnut cookies),\u00a0nun-e-nokhodchi<\/em><\/span> (four leaf clover cookies), and my favorite\u00a0tut<\/em><\/span> (almond cookies). Rose water can be found in the baking aisle at the grocery store or ordered online<\/a>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Rose water and saffron pistachio ice cream is a Persian classic treat (Mashti Malone\u2019s in Hollywood is known for theirs). Although it not something traditionally made for Nowruz, <\/em><\/span>after teaching the art of the French macaron and baking over 50 dozen macarons (and then making another 5 dozen for a friend\u2019s birthday), I could not stand the thought of making tut <\/em><\/span>this week <\/em>(which is similar to a French macaron without the meringue).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Ice<\/a><\/p>\n

ice cream<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

The history of ice cream is linked to the Chinese and then the Arabs. Then it was more like sweetened ice. It was not until the 19th century that the French made this frozen treat\u00a0 the thicker and creamier frozen ice cream we know now. It was also at that time that ice cream became something to be served at significant meals. Thanks to American Nancy Johnson, in the 1850’s ice cream became available to the masses when she invented the hand crank freezer. Since then ice cream has become a universal favorite (although Americans consume far more ice cream than they do in Europe).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

production and ingredient notes<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

To welcome spring, we are making this Persian classic \u00e0 la Fran\u00e7aise<\/em> and with a Parisian twist. We start with a cr\u00e8me anglaise<\/em><\/span> base (using cream and egg yolks).\u00a0 You can cook the cr\u00e8me anglaise over direct heat but I suggest using a bain marie<\/em><\/span> that way you have more control over the heat and it is more forgiving should the household distract you while you are cooking.\u00a0 I use less rose water then what is typically used to make this treat. However, if the rose water is too fragrant for you, substitute orange blossom water (and use orange zest in lieu of the saffron).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Saffron is a spice that is derived from hand-picking the stigmas from the purple saffron crocus flower.\u00a0 Saffron is expensive because there are only 2-3 stigmas in each flower. Saffron is slightly bitter in taste and the crimson threads give food a warm, golden hue. The saffron balances the fragrant rose water. If you want a more pronounced saffron flavor and\/or color add another \u00bc teaspoon of saffron threads, but do not add more than that or it will be the only thing you taste (the adjoining photographs use \u00bd teaspoon saffron threads). You can find saffron in grocery stores and even at Trader Joes.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Girls<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cOverrun\u201d is basically the churning of ice cream. I prefer a shorter overrun which will result in a creamy, luxurious ice cream (like a gelato). A longer overrun results in lighter, fluffier ice cream because more air cells are created inflating the volume (similar to American ice cream). The Parisian twist is a nod to Amorino<\/a> <\/em>gelato shops (12 in Paris alone) and their signature presentation of scooping the frozen treat in the shape of a rose.<\/span><\/p>\n

Two quick notes about freezing ice cream. First, always press plastic wrap over the top of the ice cream to prevent freezer burn. Second, the ice cream tastes best if you let it freeze 24 hours before consuming it.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

**<\/span><\/p>\n

As a private chef, I am in many peoples\u2019 homes and I see first-hand how people are in an unguarded, private setting. While I will never write about my clients (I do not cook and tell),<\/em> I can tell you that while I feel I have seen everything I find that people at their core (their ingredients, if you will) are fundamentally the same regardless of their geographic and economic placement or cultural heritage. While some can communicate it better than others, we all want basically the same things, a safe place for our families to live, food to eat, security, respect, and to be loved and feel needed. We all welcome spring and sleep under the same blanket of sky. Aren\u2019t we all like rose water finding expression in different ways? Or, as Gertrude Stein (another American woman who lived in Paris), said \u201ca rose is a rose is a rose<\/em>,<\/span>\u201d meaning we, like roses, are all the really same despite our different heritages, genders, and colors.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The rain is on its way out and spring will be officially here soon: let\u2019s celebrate spring and our humanity with a little ice cream. I wish all of my Persian friends and neighbors, and everyone, a very happy and prosperous new year, a festive Wild Fire Eve, and of course, \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Je vous souhaite un bon app\u00e9tit<\/em>!<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0LM<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u00a0Dedicated to Y. M., S.Z., S.T., B.T., P.S.,<\/em><\/span>
\nand especially, A.N. who recently helped me craft a gift card<\/em><\/span>
\nin Farci.\u00a0 Merci encore, ma belle.\u00a0 LM<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\n

\"rose<\/a><\/p>\n

rose water and saffron pistachio ice cream<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0yield:\u00a0<\/span>makes\u00a0 4 cups<\/span><\/p>\n

what you need:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

1 cup organic whole milk\u00a0<\/span>
\n\u00bd cup superfine granulated sugar<\/span>
\n4 large organic egg yolks\u00a0<\/span>
\n2 cups organic cold heavy cream<\/span>
\n5 teaspoons rose water<\/span>
\n\u00bc-\u00bd teaspoon saffron threads<\/span>
\n\u00be cup (shelled) roasted pistachios<\/span><\/p>\n

how to:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n