{"id":7039,"date":"2012-04-15T16:39:22","date_gmt":"2012-04-15T23:39:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/?p=7039"},"modified":"2012-12-19T17:30:47","modified_gmt":"2012-12-20T01:30:47","slug":"deep-roots","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/deep-roots","title":{"rendered":"deep roots"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Chef<\/a> <\/p>\n

deep roo<\/strong><\/span>ts, significant growth, and organically so:<\/strong><\/span>
\nMcGrath Family Farms and three fresh salads for spring<\/strong><\/p>\n

kale and turnip slaw with mustard seed dressing<\/strong><\/span><\/a>
\nstrawberry and wild arugula salad on a Ciabatta plank<\/strong><\/span><\/a>
\nspring pea and fava bean salad with fava leaves<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Mustard seeds <\/span>are powerful things. When I was a girl my mother gave me a necklace with mustard seeds in a little locket. It represented a parable about the power of faith and how significant growth <\/em>can come from humble beginnings (tiny seeds)<\/em>. It was also significant to me because her family came from generations of famers. I wore it all the time and when it broke I was girlishly devastated. <\/span><\/p>\n

My draw to the mustard plant was not unique. In 1868, Dominick McGrath, a sheep herder from Northern California, journeyed to Southern California where he discovered six foot high mustard plants.  Significant growth from tiny seeds. Dominick McGrath had found fertile soil and the place where he would sow seeds and plant his family\u2019s roots. McGrath Family Farms <\/a>was born. I recently visited the McGrath Family Farm and as I picked (and ate) my way through the organic fields, it was the very soil underneath my feet which inspired our lunch that day and this week\u2019s simple pleasure: three fresh salads for spring <\/em>(and yes, one includes mustard seeds). <\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

\"McGrath<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

 know your source<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

It is important to know your suppliers whether you are a professional or cooking for your own family. It is a matter of taste (and health). The meals that I make are only as good as the ingredients of which they are composed. As such, I want to know how the product was raised\/grown, what was put in the soil or fed to the animals, and when it was harvested. The relationships I have with my suppliers are paramount and based upon respect, trust, and knowledge of their practices.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a>

(photograph compliments of Ehrin Marlow photography)<\/p><\/div>\n

The McGrath Family Farm is one of those suppliers whom I, as well as many Los Angeles first-rate restaurants, rely on for many organic products. The McGrath Family Farm is located in Camarillo, 55 miles from Los Angeles. Phil McGrath (a fourth generation Oxnard farmer) and his wife, Joanna, run the farm. Michael Roberts works the farm and oversees the educational programs, the organic market, and community food donations. Many of the workers live on the land. <\/span><\/p>\n

 \"McGrath<\/a>\"McGrath<\/a><\/p>\n

 what does it mean to be an organic farm ?<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

What constitutes \u201corganic\u201d can be confusing to everyone. However, with respect to the production of organic produce it is relatively simple (we will discuss organic meats, dry goods, and packaging on another occasion).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"McGrath<\/a><\/p>\n

It was President Lincoln who, 150 years ago this May, created the United States Department of Agriculture (\u201cUSDA<\/a>\u201d) which is responsible for administering programs for the fair marketing of food. At Lincoln\u2019s time, conventional versus organic farming did not exist; everything was organically grown (our obsession with chemicals and spraying and killing things with them… came later). <\/span><\/p>\n

\"McGrath<\/a><\/p>\n

The National Organic Program<\/span> (NOP) was created by the Organic Foods Production Act of 1990 and it is responsible for regulating and enforcing the USDA standards for USDA organic farming. The NOP defines \u201corganic\u201d food as food produced without the use of conventional pesticides, fertilizers, synthetic ingredients, sewage sludge, bioengineering, or ionizing radiation. <\/em>7 CFR Sec. 205.105 et seq.  In other words, if you buy certified organic <\/em>food (it must be certified<\/em>) then you know that your food was not grown in a petrie dish<\/em>, not the result of gene splicing<\/em>, and no chemicals, gases, waxes or dyes were used to grow, extend the life of, add color to, or ripen your food<\/em>. If you are wondering, yes, all of that manipulation is permitted in conventional farming and it is done. Hungry? <\/span><\/p>\n

\"McGrath<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Organic food production also means that the crops are produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources as well as the conservation of soil and water to enhance environmental quality for future generations. So the food is not only better for you (as well as the farm workers) but the production of organic food is better for our environment now and the land we leave to our children. <\/span><\/p>\n

For a farm to be certified as an organic farm, an NOP accredited certifier must inspect the farm to make sure that the farmer is following all of the USDA rules to meet the organic standards. This includes reviewing the farmer\u2019s organic plan and record-keeping as well as annual inspections. In addition to the inspections, the inspector interviews the farmer and others involved in the food production. The process to convert to organic farming takes a minimum<\/em> of three years. It is time-consuming and costly.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"McGrath<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

how does an organic farm work?<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Seeds are planted in long, elevated rows throughout the year so that crops will be ready for harvest in their seasonal prime. However, instead of pesticides and chemicals, organic farmers rely upon natural means to enhance the growth of the crops and to fend off pests. To encourage crop growth, organic mulches (consisting of roots and prior growth) and compost and worm casings are used to enhance the soil. <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"McGrath<\/a><\/p>\n

 Above the soil,flowers are important in organic farming. Flowers surrounding the row edges (called bumper crops) maximize pollination and attract insects, bees, and birds all of whom also eat pests that are contemplating have a snack on the crops. Caspia, Tuberose, Lavender, Aster, Sunflowers, Ranunculus, and Snapdragons are just a few of the border crops I found that day. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"McGrath<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

 why does organic food cost more?<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Clients and students routinely ask me why organic produce costs more than non-organic produce. While most people I meet want to eat organically, they are surprised by the price difference. Organic food costs more than conventionally grown produce because it simply costs more to produce. <\/span> <\/p>\n