{"id":8411,"date":"2012-07-10T21:44:29","date_gmt":"2012-07-11T04:44:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/?p=8411"},"modified":"2012-07-23T18:12:30","modified_gmt":"2012-07-24T01:12:30","slug":"vienez-avec-moi-a-gordes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefmorgan.com\/engine\/vienez-avec-moi-a-gordes","title":{"rendered":"venez avec moi \u00e0 Gordes"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

 picking cherries in the valley of the Gods: venez avec moi \u00e0 Gordes <\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/span>It is 9:30 p.m. and the sun is setting, but not so quickly. The sun is taking its time; everyone is. It is difficult to put an end to a day filled with Proven\u00e7al sun, the calming smell of lavender, and the song of the complacent cicadas. As I write, I see expansive green valleys filled with cherry trees below me. The sound of pea-gravel crunching under the waiter\u2019s feet (as he brings me a Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape and something warm for my shoulders) is only a momentary distraction from the twenty birds swirling above my head trying to get in their last flight before heading to bed. I am in Luberon. I have eaten and explored my way through the day: jambon<\/em> with truffles; cherries I picked off the trees;  fougasse<\/em> lush with salty olives and olive oil; wild boar sausage; fresh ch\u00e8vre bathed in crushed lavender and honey, a\u00efoli with perfectly steamed vegetables; ros\u00e9s from nearby vineyards; hearty and robust reds from nearby Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape<\/em>. I think I found the land of the Gods and perhaps that is why the Romans had once claimed it as their own centuries ago. It am in Gordes<\/em> and it is Gordes<\/em> which inspired this week\u2019s simple pleasure<\/em>, cherries poached in fresh lavender and thyme<\/span>. However, before you go there, come with me to one of the Luberon\u2019s most beautiful villages: venez avec moi \u00e0 Gordes. <\/em><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

 \"Chef<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Gordes<\/em>: where is it and how to get there<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Despite the fact it is summer, Paris is rainy and chilly enough to wear light cashmere. This California girl needed some sun and a dose of adven<\/span>ture. A weekend of sunny escapism sounded inviting. I chose Gordes<\/em>, the jewel of the Luberon<\/em> Valley, which reportedly was in the 80\u2019s (Fahrenheit). I got on the train and headed south. I chose well.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

Gordes<\/em> is the capital of the Luberon<\/em> valley, which is in Haut-Provence<\/em> in the southwest region of France. The Luberon<\/em> is about a 8\u00bd- 9 hour drive south from Paris<\/em> (that is if you have a heavy foot…sigh…). By train it will take you about 2 \u00bd hours from gare de Lyon<\/em> to Avignon<\/em>.  A one way, first class ticket, is about 113 euros. The train station in Avignon<\/em> is quaint and user-friendly. On-site rental car agencies make it easy to rent a car and drive to Gordes<\/em> (36 kilometers from Avignon<\/em>), about a 30 minute drive.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

The villages in the Luberon<\/em> are seemingly close to one another and the moment you leave one, you seem to stumble upon another enchanting village down the road. They all have something special: Apt, Cavaillon, Maubec, Lacoste, Menerbes, Bonnieux, Buoux, Saignon, Lourmarin, Vaugines, Ansouis, La Tour D\u2019Aigues, Beaumont, Cadenet<\/em>, and Pujet<\/em>, are just a few.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

 sites and architecture in Gordes<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Provence is filled with hanging (or \u201cperched\u201d) villages, which are stone villages built on top of a hill. Many of these villages boast ancient castles and buildings. Gordes<\/em> is one of those hanging villages which sits on the southern edge of the Vaucluse<\/em> plateau and overlooks the Coulon<\/em> valley.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

Gordes<\/em> is recognized as \u201cone of the most beautiful villages in France.\u201d Gordes<\/em> was originally an oppidum, a settlement in the 11th century in administrative Rome. The name \u201cGordes\u201d<\/em> in fact came from the original tribe that settled here known as the Vulgientes<\/em> or Vordenses<\/em> (in Gallo-Roman times the “V” typically  became a “G”).  Gordes<\/em> was a natural choice for a settlement due to its hilltop, defensive positioning from invaders and a close water source. After centuries of turbulent times, Gordes<\/em> developed into a village of small craftsmans of olive oil producers, tanneries, cobblers in the 18th and 19th century. <\/span><\/p>\n

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The heart of the village is the 11th century castle. The castle has changed hands over the years, endured seizure during the French Revolution, and even given to a commune. The castle has large, rounded towers and was built as a defensive fortress with artillery platforms and canon openings. Stone stairs lead to the the town square with a courtyard with a fountain. The castle is now both the town hall and an exhibition site for art. The fountain in the center of the village was the only water source for the town until 1954.<\/span><\/p>\n

Across from the castle, and easily seen from a distance with the castle, is the 18th century church. The church bell still rings and the church is lovely inside; the parish is small and welcoming and birds fly in and out of the church windows reminding you that in Provence, you are never far from nature. Alleyways which surround the church and the castle lead to small stores and residences. Below the church is the Caves St Firmin <\/em>(cellars of the St Firmin Palace <\/em>carved out of a rock) and the Theatre des Terrasses <\/em>(home to music and theater festival in August). <\/span><\/p>\n

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Throughout the years, Gordes<\/em> has attracted numerous artists including: photographers Willy Ronis <\/em>and Izis <\/em>and painters Jean Degottex, Marc Chagall, Victor Vasarely, Jean Deyrolle, Pol Mara, <\/em>and Andr\u00e8 Lhote.<\/em> <\/span><\/p>\n

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Outside the village are two significant sites not to be missed: The Bories Village<\/em> and the Abbey of S\u00e9nanque.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

Abbaye de S\u00e9quenane<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

The Abbey was founded in 1148 by the Abbot of Mazan. The romantic structures (consisting of a cloister, the chapter house, chapel, dormitory, church tower, and church) lie amongst a garden and fields of lavender at the base of a valley. Like the Gordes<\/em> castle, the Abbey has undergone rough times: religious wars and even sold as a national good during the Revolution. It is currently maintained by the friends of the S\u00e9quenane<\/em>. The abbey itself is under Cisterican order and a religious community (as a priory of L\u00e9rins) has been living there since 1988. They support themselves on tending to the honey bees and lavender fields.  You can visit the monastery anytime but if you want a tour of the interior, you must go in a group at particular times. <\/span> <\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

Village des Bories<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

The origin of the Bories is thought to date back to the Ligurians, several centuries ago. The Bories is a community of Gallic huts built of drystone (without mortar). Restored between 1969 and 1976, the small huts consist of living quarters as well as pigstys, storage spaces, treshing areas for wheat, ovens, and sheep and goat pens. Inhabitants abandoned it in the 19th century. You can visit the site from 9 am to 8 pm all year except the week in between Christmas and New Year\u2019s Day. <\/span> <\/p>\n

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\"Chef<\/a>    <\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

nearby museums celebrating the resources of the land: <\/strong>lavender, olives, and sand<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

 Mus\u00e9e de la Lavande<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

The museum of lavender is on the route de Gordes<\/em> in Coustellet<\/em> (between Avignon and Gordes<\/em>. The museum explains the difference between fine lavender (found in Provence and in areas only at an altitude above 800 meters) and lavandine which is predominately grown outside Provence and well as the distillery process. There is a large gift boutique with lavender products. <\/span><\/p>\n

Mus\u00e9e Moulin de Bouillons et Mus\u00e9e du Verre et du Vitrail<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Mus\u00e9e Moulin de Bouillons<\/em> and the Mus\u00e9e du Verre et du Vitrail<\/em> are located in St -Pantaleon,<\/em> a 3 hectare park, en route to Gordes<\/em>. The Mus\u00e9e du Verre et du Vitrail<\/em> is a museum of stained glass which demonstrates the technique of glazing and to the use of glass in our lives and the making and presence of stained glass. <\/strong>The Mus\u00e9e Moulin de Bouillons <\/em>is an operative, animal-powered olive oil mill, dating from the 16th century. Here, you can learn the history of olive oil and Marseille soap. The museums are open every day except Tuesday.  <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a>\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

 culinary specialities of the region<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/span>The Luberon<\/em> is lush with fields of wheat, lavender, grapes, and olive trees. Fruit trees thrive in the valley conditions and cherries, figs, and apricots seem to be the most plentiful. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

There are many varieties of honey: honey flavored with thyme flowers, lavender, rosemary, orange blossoms, chestnut, and sapin, are just a few. With respect to meat, lamb is most commonly consumed and racks of lamb will be offered in all quality restaurants. Wild boar and pork are a close second. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/a><\/p>\n

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While Marseille<\/em> has bouillabaisse<\/em>, Apt<\/em> has its sugared fruit, and Banon<\/em> has its goat cheese of the same name, there is not a particular culinary dish that I would say is unique to Gordes<\/em>. However, regional baked specialties such as fougasse<\/em> and le gibassier<\/em> should not be missed. \"Chef<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

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\"Chef<\/a>  <\/p>\n

fromage de ch\u00e8vre<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Goat cheese is plentiful in Provence and the Luberon<\/em> is full of delicious, local, artisan goat cheeses. Banon de Banon A.O.C. <\/em>is probably one of the most <\/span>commonly known goat cheeses from this region. Banon de Banon<\/em> is a small round wheel of goat cheese wrapped in chestnut \"Chef<\/a><\/span>leaves and bound with raffia. <\/span>Some of my other regional favorites <\/span>include:<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n