vous êtes ici
(you are here):
The seventh arrondissement is located in central Paris on the rive gauche (the left bank which is the left side of the Seine). It is often referred to as the “Invalides” arrondissement which makes sense because place des Invalides and l’ Hôtel des Invalides with the Musée de l’Armée (further explained below) is at the center of this arrondissement.
The 7ème is shaped like an upside down triangle (or a side view of a diamond ring setting). The largest side is the northern border which runs along the southern side of the Seine (which divides Paris into the two banks:the left bank, la rive gauche and the right bank, la rive droite, because if you are in the direction of the flow of the river heading West, these banks are at your right or your left hand ). The 15ème is on your left side (to your west, primarily southerly) and the 6ème is to the east (on your right, primarily southerly). The western border of of the sixth is rue de Suffren and the eastern border is rue de Sèvres.
Imagine yourself standing in the center of the 7ème at the place des Invalides facing north (toward the Seine). L’Hôtel des Invalides (the building with Napoleon’s tomb) is at your back, theTour Eiffel and Parc du Champ de Mars is on your left (a little south) and Le Musée Rodin and the neighborhood of Saint- Germain-des-Près are on your right (also a little south).
Ahead of you is a major street that borders the Seine. I call it the “quai” street. The street’s name changes at various points along the Seine corresponding to the quai. Beginning at its western edge in the 7ème it begins as quai Branly (by theEiffel Tower and the Branly Museum) as it continues toward the center of the 7ème from the pont de l’Alma to pont de la Concorde it becomes quai d’Orsay (which is in front of les invalides and l’Assemblée Nationale) . Continuing east it becomes quai Anatole France (where you will find “MO” Musée d’Orsay) until you reach rue du Bac and pont–Royal, where the 6ème begins.
Again, if you are standing at the place des Invalides facing northand walk directly ahead you will see the elaborate pont Alexandre III (the Alexandre III bridge) which crosses the Seine. You cannot miss it, it has gold statues on the top of it. If you cross this bridge you will find the Grand Palais (on your left) and the Petit Palais and the Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris (on your right).
Place yourself again back at place des Invalides facing north. If you walk north to quai d’Orsay and turn right (heading east)you will find le pont de la Concorde which is in front of the Assemblée Nationale. If you cross this bridge you are now at the place de la Concorde where the Obélisque lies and where the east end of the Champs-Élysées ends. This is the beginning of fancy-schmancy land. The Crillon is straight ahead across the place de la Concorde and beyond that is rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, Place Vendôme, rue Royale. This area is replete with expensive boutiques and nice hotels (the Bristol, Georges V and l’ avenue Montaigne to your left and the Ritz, Hôtel Côstes and Place Vendôme to your right).
Last time, back again at place des Invalides if you head west toward the Eiffel Tower, directly across the Seine is the Trocadéro (putting you at the in the north 16ème). If from place des Invalides you head to the east you will find boulevard Saint– Germain which meanders southerly and east into the 6ème and in the heart of Saint Germain-des-Près.
This is on over-simplification, of course, but if you remember that in the 7ème, Invalides is in the center and rue de l’université and rue Saint Dominique run parallel west/east (l’université is north of Saint Dominique and both intersect boulevard Saint –Germain on the east end of the 7ème), you will be able to find you way to the majority of things you will want to see and places you will want to visit in the 7ème. Now the important stuff: food.
where to eat, wet your whistle,
satisfy your sweet-tooth, buy food to take-away,
and find things for your kitchen and table
Rather categorize the 7ème by restaurants, pâtisseries (pastry shops), boulangeries (bakeries), et cetera, I have broken down the 7ème into four areas with a high concentrations of food-type interests that I find to be noteworthy (and also correspond to tourist sites). Of course my list is not exhaustive, you can find charming bistros, tasty brasseries and delicious shops on streets throughout the 7ème, but here are my recommendations nonetheless:
- Central 7ème: Invalides and the streets around Invalides;
- West 7ème: the area around the Eiffel Tower;
- Central-West 7ème: rue Saint–Dominique and surrounding streets; and
- East 7ème: Saint- Germain-des-Prèsneighborhood and surrounding streets.
Invalides and surrounding streets
There are numerous tourist interests in this area: place des Invalides and Hôtel des Invalides, Musée de l’Armée,École Militaire, pont Alexandre III (nearby are also le Grand Palais, le Petit Palace and the Musée des Beaux Arts), le pont de la Concorde, and L’Assemblée Nationale.
Auberge d’Chez Eux
2 avenue de Lowendal
(33) 01 47 05 52 57
Located in southwest corner of Invalides next to the gardens in a staging post, Chef Bertrand prepares classic French dishes without adornment but healthy portions. Cherry duck (my favorite), cassoulet, sole meunière, Saint Jacques, and Bresse chicken are a few examples.
18 boulevard la four Maubourg
(33) 01 44 11 32 22
Known for its caviar (all kinds including beluga or ossetra) and smoked fish, you can eat their treasures there or take them with you. Outside seating available. Closed Sunday.
Il Vino d’Enrico Bernardo
54, rue be Bourgogne
(33) 01 45 51 61 09
Across the intersection from Pétrossian, this “wine restaurant” is a treasure owned by Enrico Bernardo who was the youngest person to have been honored as the best sommelier of the world (meilleur sommelier du monde 2004). Open for lunch and dinner. The food is very good with a balance of Italian simplicity served in a French manner. The selection of wine and the recommendations are as you might expect, very good.
1, place du Palais Bourbon
(33) 01 45 51 58 27
Located on the corner of rue de l’Université and place du Palais Bourbon. This is a local, traditional brasseries where business people come for lunch and even bring their children on a break from school. Large outside seating and quiet. Food is traditional and the prices are modest.
5, rue de Bourgogne
(33) 01 45 51 79 42
Chef Pedro Gomes gives you contemporary Burgundy classics at this updated bistro located close to the Place du Palais Bourbon. Open for lunch and dinner. Related Tante Louis is located in the 8ème.
54, rue de Bourgogne
(33) 01 45 51 61 09
Casual atmosphere and food. Has a late night menu. Closed Sunday.
Chez les Anges
54, boulevard de la Tour Maubourg
(33) 01 47 05 89 86
Located to the west of Invalides. This 1950‘s restaurant benefitted greatly from a new interior make-over. Elegant and quiet. Good service and the cuisine is fresh and nicely plated. Probably a little more fancy than a place most people would take their children, but the prices are not bad.
Café de l’Esplanade
52, rue Fabert
(33) 01 47 05 38 80
The location of this restaurant is wonderful. It is on the corner of rue Fabert and rue de Grenelle overlooking place des Invalides and l’Esplanade des Invalides. It is great people-watching and lovely at evening with the breeze. It is open every day and starts at breakfast. The food and prices are consistent with the other Costes establishments (Café Marly, Hôtel Côstes, Société)
27, rue Malar
(33) 01 47 05 86 89
Chef Stéphane Jego, trained by Yves Candeborbe (Le Comptoir), is fabulously talented. Terrific market menu. My favorite is the foie gras and the baby lamb. Reserve ahead.
36, rue Cler
(33) 01 45 55 12 01
Casual Italian food. Reasonable prices. Lunch spot.
Le Café du Marché
38 rue Cler
Open every day. Reasonable prices. Popular lunch spot.
40, avenue Duquesne
(33) 01 53 86 09 09
Located to the east of avenue de Breteuil. Pretty atmosphere. French food with an Asian influence.
food to take-away, pâtisseries and boulangeries
les Boulangers des Invalides
14, avenue de Villar
South of the Invalides on the corner of avenue de Villars and rue d’Estrées. This is a charming place to sit and have your coffee, a tartine, or another sweet treat
and baked items are available to go and take to nearby parks. Closed Sunday.
6, rue de Bourgogne
(33) 01 45 51 78 36
Pâtissier and caterer. They have delicious breads, pastries, beautiful cakes. Good prepared salads, terrines and spicy ratatouille, good sandwiches to go.
things for your table and for you
34 rue Saint-Dominique
(33) 01 45 55 83 15
On the east side ofles Invalides has special gifts for the table. This is a good place to go if you need a wedding or bridal shower gift.
30, rue Cler
(33) 01 45 56 08 95
West of Invalides and north of École Militaire. This is one of several locations in Paris. Open everyday. They specialize in organic stuff to make you even more beautiful and healthy than you already are. Beauty products, make-up, soaps, perfumes, et cetera, using natural products, fruits, vegetables, and florals.
Avenue de Saxe
Thursday from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Saturday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.
There is only one open market in the 7ème. Located far south of the Invalides on avenue de Saxe, west of avenue de Breteuil. Although a large neighborhood market (you can buy your pantyhose in one aisle and your cheese and roasted chicken on the next.), not many tourist visit it. There is a good selection of house-wares, fresh fish, nuts, olives dried fruits, meats, and there are at least 3 cheeses shops.
the Eiffel Tower area
This area can be a little busy due to the proximity to the Eiffel Tower. Naturally, there are many “tourist places” to eat and carts selling sandwiches and crêpes, and I will leave it at that. The Champ de Mars is a large park leading to the Eiffel Tower. There is a small sandwich shop there. You can eat in this park, take a run, or do yoga in the small open pavilion in the late afternoon. If you are here for la Fête Nationale (July 14th, Bastille day), there is usually a concert and many festivities in the Parc.
In addition to the Eiffel Tower, there is theBranly Museum and across the Seine is the Trocadéro.
There is a high collection of bistros and international food on rue de Monttessuy and surrounding streets, just a little northeast from the Eiffel Tower.
Musée Quai Branly
27, quai Branly, Portail Debilly
(33) 01 47 53 68 00
The building is large and you cannot miss it. It is right on quai Branly and if you are walking around the Eiffel Tower you will the signs. The restaurant is on the fifth floor and has an all glass ceiling dining room gives you a beautiful view of the Eiffel Tower, which is the biggest draw. You have to make reservations early and it is popular with tourists. Café Branly is on the ground floor and more accessible and more suitable for children.
58 Tour Eiffel
Avenue Gustave Eiffel
(33) 01 45 55 20 04
On the first level of the Eiffel Tower open for lunch and dinner. A brasserie with great views. Suitable for children.
Le Jules Verne
Avenue Gustave Eiffel
(33) 01 45 55 61 44
Alain Ducasse and chef Pascal Féraud give you amazing food 125 meters above ground. Lunch or dinner. Occasion restaurant (à la carte menu ranges from 60- 88 euros). Access through the southern pillar.
satisfy your sweet tooth
41, ave de la Bourdonnais
(33) 01 47 05 84 30
Two-month old Sicilian gelato shop (other locations are in Milano and Turin). Vasavasa uses all natural ingredients and make delicious gelato and refreshing sorbets like pamplemousse et rose (grapefruit and rose). My favorite gelatos are fleur de lait and chocolat sur del lago. Sinfully creamy and smooth. My absolute new favorite in Paris. Trop miam !
149 rue de l’Université
(33) 01 47 53 74 40
West of Invalides. Very unique and delicious chocolates. He has another location in the 1er.
Repaire du Bacchus
74 rue de Grenelle
(33) 01 45 44 88 46
There are several of these full liquor/ wine shops all over Paris. Closed Sunday
rue Saint-Dominique and surrounding streets
Although rue Saint-Dominique runs west to east across the 7ème, this section concerns the section between avenue Rapp and avenue Bosquet. Just east of the Champ de Mars, this area is well-traversed by tourists because there is a large collection of restaurants, boutique hotels, pâtisseries, and boutiques on this end of Saint-Dominique.That being said, there are some of my favorite spots in the 7ème that I do not think you should miss.
Christian Constant, one of the very consistent chefs in Paris of whom I respect greatly, has three restaurants here all very close to one another. Nearby is les Fables de la Fontaine run by his protégés. La Fontaine de Mars is next door. The street also has my favorite produce stand, butcher, and bakery in the 7ème. There is a real feeling of congeniality on this street: everyone knows everyone else who works on this street, especially along the Christian Constant section. You will see employees of one establishment hanging out with the employees of another establishment nearby.
On Rue Surcouf, a small street that runs into rue Saint–Dominique, there are a collection of small bistros that are family run and have good prices, including a small southern Italian caterer (Traiteur Italian) that has basic Italian food for your little ones. Other restaurants include: Le Clarisse, Al Ristorante, A Chistera, Daikon (for Chinese food), Le Petite Bordelaise, and Petit Tonneau (my favorite on this street).
My favorite bakery in this area is le Moulin de la Vierge (wonderful cereal breads and I love their apricot and almond tart, among other things). Lemoine is another excellent bakery as well as Gregory Renard.
I go to Harry Cover for fruit and vegetables. Julien wraps my radishes like a bouquet and he, like all the employees here, will hand pick your fruit or vegetables based upon when you want to eat them (typical of French produce stands as well as fromageries). Le Viande du Champ de Mars sells wonderful meats are they open on Sunday if you are renting an apartment and want to make your Sunday dinner. For quick food staples there is a Carrefour City, Petit Casino, and a Franprix (in order of my preference of the three).
139, rue Saint –Dominique
(33) 01 46 53 73 34
The café is open everyday and not particular about serving lunch after the usual “lunchtime”. It serves breakfast that is reasonably priced. Lunch and dinner are also served. You can take the children here.
Les Cocottes de Christian Constant
135, rue Saint Dominique
(33) 01 45 50 10 31
Closed on Sunday. This is a casual wine bar/neo bistro with almost everything served in cocottes even the dessert. There is a good selection of wine by the glass as well as beer. You can sit and dine at the bar or at tables. There is a good selection of fish, meat, vegetables, ravioli, and do not miss the fruit crumble desserts or chocolate cake.
Le Violon d’Ingres
135, rue Saint-Dominique
(33) 01 45 55 15 05
One of my favorite restaurants in Paris. Not a place that your children are likely to enjoy . The cassoulet and the vanilla caramel soufflé I am particularly fond of.
Les Fables de la Fontaine
131, rue Saint- Dominique
(33) 01 44 18 37 55
Seafood with a Southwestern influence. Founded by Christian Constant (now run by protegees of his from Violin). The food is very good and the service is first-rate. Try the Basque cake. Open for lunch and dinner.
La Fontaine de Mars
129, rue Saint–Dominique
(33) 01 47 05 46 44
Traditional French food by Christian and Jacques Boudon. Recognizable for its red and white checkered table clothes bearing the restaurant name. Many people take their children here.
Hôtel Thoumieux (Brasserie Thoumieux)
79, rue Saint-Dominique
(33) 01 47 05 49 75
This brasserie has an atmosphere as swanky as Société or Hôtel Côstes with really good food. Selection ranges from steak with shoestring fries to calamari carbonara (my personal favorite). Chef Jean-François Piège used to be with Thierry Costes as well as the Crillon. Open everyday.
18, rue Jean Nicot
(33) 01 53 59 96 96
The Iberian specialties here are delicious. The meat of the black-hoofed pig (pata negra) is rich and nutty (thanks to their diet of acorns and roots) and the things to go with it (including my favorite grilled peppers) are delicious too. However, the last two occasions I was here it was all tourists. The good news is that you can take their Spanish treasures with you as they sell the jambon-jambon, lomo, et cetera, vacuum packed and to go.
Au Petit Tonneau
20, rue Surcouf
(33) 01 47 05 09 01
Small and family owned bistro with very nice service. The wine list is a little limited,
but the food is good in a casual atmosphere and you can easily take your children here.
Vin Sur Vin
20, rue de Monttessuy
(33) 01 47 05 14 20
This restaurant is described as “new french” with an emphasis on its lengthy
wine list (hence the name).
Le Clos des Gourmets
16, avenue Rapp
(33) 01 47 51 75 61
It is a good buy for what you get. Restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday.
groceries and épiceries
133, rue Saint-Dominique
(33) 01 53 59 94 4
Quality fresh fruit and vegetables. This is my favorite place in the 7ème to shop for fresh produce.
Viande de Champ de Mars
(33) 01 47 05 53 52
My favorite butcher in the 7ème. Really good meat and cured specialties, including pata negra jambon.
145, rue Saint–Dominique
(33) 01 40 65 20 07
This is a chain that sells coffees and teas and the truc to go with it. There are 6 other locations throughout Paris
Fromagerie Marie-Anne Cantin
12 rue du Champs de Mars
Marie-Anne Cantin, daughter of Christian Cantin who founded the Guilde of Fromagers, has this shop with husband. They have tasting sessions to discover new cheeses and even how to make up a cheese plate.
things for your kitchen and table
69, rue Saint Dominique
Sells inexpensive things for serving and for your table
69, rue Saint-Dominique
(33) 01 45 51 11 74
Interior design but also sells things for your kitchen and home: candles, table linens, dishes.
Repaire de Bacchus
122, rue Saint–Dominique
(33) 01 45 51 77 21
Wine store (see above).
This entire area is dotted with good restaurants and there are many great places to look at before or after your visit to Musee d’Orsay. This section also has my favorite 7ème cheese shop Fromagerie Barthelemy. Joël Robuchon’s wine shop is here and his Atelier is just a few doors down and Gaya Rive Gauche is not far (many of these restaurants are on rue de Bac or huddle around it). Across the street is a Monoprix for groceries with a good selection of produce (although there are no kitchen items like there are at the larger Monoprix).
For kitchen supplies, I like au bain marie (in the antique district) where you can find treasures for you table and gifts. This whole area is full of small boutiques (particularly clothing) walk along rue de l’Universite and the surrounding streets between rue de Bellechasse and rue des Saints Peres. It borders the 6ème where there are similar boutiques, bistros and brasseries.
La Cigale Récamier
4, rue Récamier
(33) 01 45 48 86 586
Closed Sunday and further south than boulevard Saint-Germain. Nice location off the main strip with quiet outside seating. Well-kept secret; not for long. Great soufflés.
Gaya Rive Gauche
44, rue du Bac
(33) 01 454 44 73 73
Pierre Gagnaite’s çreation. Miam !
51, rue de Verneuil
(33) 01 45 44 69 13
Neo-classic bistro. Small and casual with simple decor. I love this place. Great atmosphere. Great cheese selections and delicious meat dishes. Love the egg dishes.
27, quai Voltaire
(33) 01 42 61 17 49
This is an institution. Lunch and Dinner. More of an occasion restaurant in terms of price. Located by the Seine on the very edge of the 6ème and 7ème, just east of rue du Bac. Great bistro classics and attention to detail (down to the handwritten menu).
Le Bistrot de Paris
33, rue de Lille
(33) 01 42 61 16 83
Like Voltaire, this is another institution. No frills. Casual and good food.
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
5, rue de Montalembert
(33) 01 42 22 56 56
One of my new favorites. The food is haute cuisine, but it is served at a table (akin to a sushi bar) that surrounds the open kitchen. The seating arrangement naturally lends itself to knowing your dining neighbors. Everything I have eaten here from the seafood to the ris de veau has been excellent. While there are other ateliers, this is the one all employees come to for their training.
17, rue Malar
(33) 01 44 18 31 33
Tiny bistro. Reasonable prices.
Le P’tit Troquet
28, rue de l’Exposition
(33) 01 47 05 80 39
60, rue de Verneuil
(33) 01 45 44 04 84
The brothers bring you gourmet Vietnamese food and spectacular burgundy wine list. Take cash as no credit cards are accepted. Closed Sundays.
107, rue de l’Université
(33) 01 45 51 91 96
Jacques le Divellec specializes in everything seafood with an elegant presentation. Occasion restaurant.
cavistes, fromageries, alimentaire
la Cave de Joël Robuchon
3 rue Paul Louis Courier
(33) 01 42 22 11 02
Rochuchon’s wine shop a few blocks west of his Atelier.
79, rue du Bac
(33) 01 45 48 80 93
Known for it fine armagnacs, this wine bar has been around since 1905. Closed Sunday
62 ,rue de Sèvres
(33) 01 47 34 33 45
Won Meilleur Ouvrier de France 25 years de métier. Very popular cheese shop. They supply cheese to many of Paris chefs.
51, rue de Grenelle
(33) 01 45 48 56 75
Madame Nicole, recommended by the Mont d’Or, will help you pick out the perfect cheese for your dinner party. This is my favorite cheese shop in the 7éme. Unique combinations and like piment covered blue cheese and wonderful goat cheeses like Treffe du Perche and homemade Fontainebleau.
Monoprix rue du Bac
This small Monoprix still has épicerie items, teas, coffee and good produce and meats. No kitchenware table items like the larger ones. Across the street from the Atelier Closed Sunday
things for your kitchen and table
au bain marie
56 rue de l’Université
(33) 01 42 71 08 69
I love the name (and the store). Here you will find antiques and newer items for your table. silver porcelain serving pieces and silverware. Located in the antique district. Closed Sunday and Monday.
16 rue de Bellechasse
75007 Paris (33) 01 45 51 88 88
One of three locations in Paris, it has fun gift many of which are kitchen-related. Located in an area which many unique boutiques, south of boulevard de Saint– Germain.
The Conran Shop
117 rue du Bac
75007 Paris (33) 01 42 84 10 01
Le Bon Marché
24 rue de Sevres
(33) 01 44 39 82 80
Department store with large kitchen and tableware selection. Closed Sunday.
something for you
Parfum sur Mesure
Stéphanie de Brujn
52, rue de l’Université
(33) 01 47 34 58 25
Don’t just cook with citrus and vanilla, wear it. Stéphanie will compose a custom perfume for you from a whole range of scents, including tarragon, grapefruit and gardenias.