venez avec moi dans le 6ème
vous êtes ici
(you are here)
an overview and the tourist points
The sixth arrondissement is located in central Paris on the rive gauche (the left bank). The area is popular with tourists because it is not only full of boutique hotels and quaint bistros but centrally located to many things that tourists come to Paris to see.
The 6ème is in a rectangular shape with the northern and southern borders being the shorter sides of the rectangle. The northern border is what l call the “quai” street because the street’s name changes at various points along the Seine corresponding to the quai. In the 6ème the “quai” street (going west to east) begins as quai Malaquais (in front of École des Beaux Arts) then turns to quai Conti and finally quai des Grand Augustins (where you will find le pont Neuf (the bridge which crosses western tip of Île de la Cité and lands you in the 1er where you will find the Louvre right in front of you).
West of the 6ème is the 7ème, home to the Eiffel Tower, Invalides, and Musée D’Orsay. The southern border of the 6ème is boulevard Montparnasse which is the beginning of the Montparnasse neighborhood in the 14ème (home to Montparnasse’s famous cemetery and catacombs). The 15ème is also south of the 6ème. The 5ème (Latin Quarter) is to the east of the 6ème.
The 6ème is known as the place for artists: famous artists, singers, writers and poets made this area their home or at least their meeting place. The tourist sites in the 6ème include the Ecole des Beaux Arts, the Saint Germain-des-Près neighborhood, Jardin du Luxembourg and the Palais du Luxembourg (where Queen Marie Medici lived briefly) and many historic churches (i.e., Saint Sulpice, Val de Grace, Saint Severin, Saint Etienne du Mont, and Saint Germain-des-Près). The 6ème is compromised of two sections: the north section where the Saint-Germain-des-Près neighborhood can be found; and the south section where you will find the Jardin du Luxembourg and Montparnasse. Now, onto food…
where to eat, wet your whistle, satisfy your sweet-tooth,
buy food to take-away, and find things for your kitchen and table
Rather than categorize the 6ème by restaurants, pâtisseries (pastry shops), boulangeries (bakeries), et cetera, I have broken down the 6ème into three areas with a high concentrations of food-type interests that I find to be noteworthy and also correspond to tourist sites (visit a tourist site and eat well at the same time…very efficient). Of course my list is not exhaustive, you can find charming bistros, tasty brasseries and delicious shops on streets throughout the 6ème, but here are my recommendations nonetheless:
- North 6ème: the Saint Germain-des-Près neighborhood
- Central 6ème: Saint Sulpice, Luxembourg gardens and the surrounding area; and
- South 6ème: south of Luxembourg gardens and to Montparnasse boulevard.
the Saint Germain-des-Pres neighborhood
and the area north of boulevard Saint Germain
Saint-Germain-des-Près is a neighborhood as well as a major boulevard (which can make it a little confusing). Boulevard Saint Germain-des-Près runs from the Pont de la Concorde in the 7ème and travels southerly and easterly following the Seine until it returns back toward the Seine at pont de Sully in the 5éme. It is the shape of a smile. Boulevard Saint Germain-des-Près is known for its expensive shops and restaurants and it is well-traversed by tourists. This area is walking distance to the Musee d’Orsay, les Invalides, and the Louvre.
The heart of the Saint Germain-des-Pres neighborhood is where boulevard Saint Germain-des-Près meets rue Bonaparte and rue de Rennes. Here there is a collection of well-known restaurants surrounding the place de la Saint Germain and the church Saint Germain. Les Deux Magots faces the church, a couple of doors north is Le Société. On the west side of Les Deux Magots is Café de Flore and across the boulevard (on the south side) is Caffé Armani, Emporio Armani, and Brasserie Lipp. Rue de Renne and rue Bonaparte will lead you to many shops and speciality stores.
Included in this area are not only the restaurants on boulevard Saint Germain but those north of the boulevard up to the Seine where you will find a collection of nice restaurants and hotels.
53, quai des Grands-Augustins
(33) 01 43 25 45 94
Chef Guy Savoy’s more casual bistro. A little touristy but the food is solid.
45, quai des Grands Augustins
(33) 01 43 54 31 33
Located amongst a little collection of good restaurants and situated across from the Seine. Great Spanish food. Restaurant is closed on Monday.
51, quai des Grands-Augustins
(33) 01 56 79 24 31
Great place to have a drink
Ze Kitchen Galerie
4, rue des Grands-Augustins
Next to Laperouse you will find this restaurant with very light, Asian cuisine (although the room can get a little noisy).
KGB (Kitchen Galerie Bis)
25, rue des Grands-Augustins
(33) 01 46 33 00 85
Same owner (William Ledeuil) as Ze Kitchen Galerie, but this one is less expensive. French food with Asian influence. Try the apple cappuccino with ginger ice cream.
Le Relais Louis XIII
8, rue des Grands-Augustins
(33) 01 43 26 75 96
Beautiful old buliding. The foie gras with pain épice and the scallops are two of my favorites.
21, rue Mazarine
(33) 01 46 33 76 90
Traditional fare. Very close to the Seine and the Ecole Nationale de Beaux Arts. Closed Sunday and Monday.
62, rue Mazarine
(33) 01 53 10 19 99
Neoclassic restaurant with a trendy atmosphere. Modern and grand dining room. People go just for the music. Not a place I would take the children.
25-27, rue de Buci
(33) 01 43 26 01 93
Very noisy but fun.
13, rue des Beaux-Arts
(33) 01 44 41 99 01
Historically significant and great decor. Nice place to lunch or grab a drink. This is where Oscar Wilde uttered his last words: “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or other of us has got to go . . .I am dying beyond my means [and] I can’t even afford to die.”
173, Boulevard Saint-Germain
(33) 01 44 77 76 00
Ralph Lauren. Pretty patio. The food is American. The decor is classic Lauren with leather and wood and red roses (think RL’s second floor of his Rodeo Drive store with hamburgers and expensive drinks). Located west of place de la Saint Germain
4, place Saint-Germain
(33) 01 53 63 60 69
The same owners as Côstes and Montaigne. The food is also the same with a slight Asian influence. The building and decor are beautiful. Lunch time is primarily business lunches. In the evening it is a little more happening.
Emporio Armani Caffé
149, boulevard Saint-Germain
(33) 01 42 78 91 44
Hard to believe but in the second floor of this retail clothing store is some good Italian food with service to match.
Les Deux Magots
6, place Saint-Germain-des-Pres
(33) 01 45 48 55 25
Classic bistro food and centrally located. I love to meet friends here for a coffee or drink. I came here after running the Paris marathon because I was craving their steak and fries.
Café de Flore
172, boulevard Saint-Germain
(33) 01 45 44 33 40
This place is a classic. It is also a good place for a late night tea or early evening apéritif.
hôtels and winebars
Hôtel Bel Ami
7-11 rue Saint Benoît
75006 Paris, France
(33) 01 42 61 53 53
Located just north of place Saint Germain. Very chic bar and hotel is very well placed.
La Dernière Goutte
6, rue Bourbon-le Chateau
(33) 01 43 29 11 62
Closed Sunday and Monday
Nice wine bar by lovely American owner Juan Sanchez.
La Maison des Millesimes
137, boulevard Saint Germain
(33) 01 40 46 80 01
This wine shop which specializes in Bordeaux wines is open every day and has a good range of wines in various price ranges.
chocolatiers, pâtisseries, boulangeries et thé
13, rue des Grands-Augustins
(33) 01 40 51 82 50
Tea shop. My favorite Earl Greys.
Jugetsudo by Marutama Nori
95, rue de Seine
(33) 01 46 33 94 90
Beautiful boutique and Japanese tea shop, just below boulevard Saint Germain.
45, rue de Seine
(33) 01 46 34 29 06
One of several of these Russian tea shops in Paris. The Detox (green tea and lemon) is one of their many popular flavors.
12, rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs
(33) 01 53 63 05 43
Delicious teas in this little tea shop.
Saint Sulpice and Jardins du Luxembourg
This area I consider geographically the heart of the 6ème and includes the area south of Boulevard Saint Germain to Luxembourg gardens. It is filled with boutique hotels, bistros, small boutiques for clothing, antiques, the garden, and your home. Rue de Rennes has a high collection of chocolatiers, pâtisseries and kitchen/home shops. The little area around Saint Sulpice also has many small bistros and boutiques on every corner. On rue Saint Sulpice itself there is a string of boutiques selling home items. Rue Mabillon has many bistros, the street is very crowded with tourists in the summer. At Christmas time the area surrounding place de Saint Sulpice is set up with vendors selling holiday items as well as vin chaud.
Both marchés are centrally located and the closed marche, St-Germain, has a number of restaurants as well.
You can get lost in Luxembourg gardens and you should. It is beautiful with its rose gardens, fountains and carefully planted grounds. It is wonderful for chlidren and provides hours of entertainment with a carousel, a “zip line” type ride and monkey bars for the kids, the fountain to race remote-controlled boats, and pedal cars and horses. People run in the park, play tennis and lunch throughout the day (there is a café here as well as snack shops or you can bring in your own food. On the north end is the palace (Palais du Luxembourg) and the street which circles over the top of the gardens (rue de Vaugirard) has many small boutiques, ice cream shops, épcerie shops and even a post office should you need it (there is another on rue de Rennes and rue du Four).
In terms of fresh food markets, the 6ème has it all. There are two markets in the 6ème, the open market, Marché Raspail, is one of three dedicated organic markets in Paris and the other market, Marché St-Germain, is a covered market open every day.
21, rue Bonaparte
(33) 01 44 07 64 87
Famous for their macarons, the upstairs is a lovely spot for tea and lunch.
Le Comptoir du Relais
Hôtel Relais Saint-Germain
9, Carrefour de l’Odéon
(33) 01 44 27 07 97
Chef Yves Camdeborde’s inventive take on bistro food. Delicious.
3, rue Montfaucon
(33) 01 44 41 10 07
Raw bar. Great oysters
Coco & Co
11, rue Bernard-Palissy
(33) 01 45 44 02 52
If you like eggs, this is the place for you.
La Rosa Épicerie Fine
62, rue de Seine
Le Petit Lux
29, rue de Vaugirard
This little bistro, bar and take-away spot always has a line. It is a great spot to pick up food to take on a picnic to nearby Luxembourg gardens. Closed in August.
10, rue de l’Ancienne Comédie
(33) 01 43 25 71 60
One of his several restaurants which is a boulangerie and pâtisserie. Kayer is my favorite baker in Paris. He uses simple, wholesome ingredients and his buckwheat breads and white chocolate brioche are my favorite. You can also dine in.
27, rue Madame
(33) 01 45 48 69 57
Local Italian restaurant. Casual family atmosphere. Good food.
Bread and Roses
7, rue fleurs
(33) 01 42 22 06 06
This bakery with organic bread has some seating as well as a take-away counter where you can take food to Jardin du Luxembourg which is just a block away.
Le Cherche Midi
22, rue du Cherche-Midi
(33) 01 45 48 27 44
Really good Italian food near Saint Sulpice.
11, rue Dupin
(33) 01 42 22 64 56
chocolatiers, boulangeries et pâtisseries
91, rue de Rennes
(33) 01 45 44 66 13
My favorite chocolatier.
8, rue du Cherche-Midi
Famous for its bread marked with a “P.” The little butter cookies are a great treat (and freeze well).
72 rue Bonaparte
My favorite macarons made with seasonal flavors. The pink praline croissants are pretty tasty too. You can pre-order for the holidays upstairs above the purse shop.
37, rue d’Assas
(33) 01 53 63 15 15
Delicious chocolates and the ice cream and sorbet cart outside always has a line (with good reason). Very close to the gardens.
Pâtisserie Sadaharu AOKI
35 rue de vaugirard
75006 Paris, France
(33) 01 45 44 48 90
I adore this bakery and tea shop. Think French pasteries and chocolates with French and Japanese flavors. Everything from green tea macarons to lemon tarts. The fraises des bois tea is delicious too.
9, rue des Quatre-Vents
(33) 01 43 54 99 30
Adorable wine bar with good wine and tapas to go with it. Located just south of boulevard Saint-Germain. Closed Sundays and Mondays and most of August.
Bacchus et Ariane
4, rue Lobineau
(33) 01 46 34 12 94
Only open since 1998 you have enjoy some wine and some small plates to go with it.
Located on boulevard Raspail between rue du Cherche-Midi et rue de Rennes. Open Tuesday and Friday from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (although it sometimes is not set up until 8 or so, especially in the rain). This is a large market with about 50 producers/vendors. I like Marc Thibiéroz’s yogurts and raw milk cheeses as well as Michel Beucher’s apples and ciders. You can have breakfast here as well as pick up delicious prepared items including roasted suckling pig, salads, vegetables, cheeses.
4/6 rue Lobineau
This market is open during the week from 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. On Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Large covered market which not only has a market but a theater, a pool, and various services for the neighborhood. Onthe North end of the market there are a slew of small casual restaurants including Thai, tapas, Italian, and places just to have a drink.
grocery stores and speciality shops
8 à huit
4, rue Jean Bart
Mini market but you can paper necessities, diary, and prepared items.
33, rue de Vaugirard
Is a miniature Monoprix. You can get pantry items, dairy, some prepared foods.
6, rue de Metiers
This is a gourmet and natural, organic store. Buy tea, chocolates as well as your organic wheat flour, flax seeds, quinoa, and oats.
Gilles Vérot – Charcutier
3, rue Notre-Dame des Champs
(33) 01 45 48 83 32
West of the gardens. this shop has excellent meats and sauissons. Closed Sundays. There is another location in the 15ème.
46, rue Madame
(33) 01 45 44 11 00
Lovely wine and cheese shop with great service and recommendations.
2, Place Edmond Rostand
(33) 01 43 29 31 10
Wonderful chocolates, tarts and prepared items to take away to nearby gardens (oeuf en gelée au jambon, crabe farci, etc).
things for your kitchen and your table
In terms of efficiency, rue de Rennes has a high concentration of specialty shops as well as kitchen and housewares shops. Rue de Vaugirard and the little streets off of this street by the gardens have boutiques with items for your kitchen and table. Here are some of my favorites.
85, rue de Rennes
There are five of these located throughout Paris. They sell porcelain dishes, silverware, glasses, knifes and many. many little treasures for your kitchen and table at a reasonable price.
99, rue de Rennes
(33) 01 45 48 94 76
Nice selection of pans, pots, verrines, casseroles and things for your kitchen.
103, rue de Rennes
(33) 01 45 48 75 88
Tablecloths, lunch boxes, trays, linens, lunch boxes. A really fun store (there are two next to one another).
27-30, rue Saint Sulpice
(33) 01 46 34 01 10
Clothes but has minimalist Japanese home items as well.
Monoprix- Saint Germain des Pres
This Monoprix has everything from yogurt makers to verrines and dishes. Think Sur La table selection but more Target-style prices.
Le Jarin d’Olaria
5, rue Médicis
Located by the gardens, Sells decorative household items as well as garden items.
66, rue de Vaugirard
(33) 01 45 44 26 74
Beautiful and bright table linens and colors with colors typical of Basque. This boutique is moving to the 8ème. Please see their website,
48, rue du Cherche-Midi
(33) 01 42 22 45 93
Boutique to sell teas and coffee and everything that goes with it.
Comptoir de Famille
34, rue Saint Sulpice
(33) 01 43 26 22 29
Country casual kitchen and dining room items including ceramics, tables and chairs, and picnic baskets. There is another boutique in the ninth.
beginning of Montparnasse area
This area has more businesses than the northern section. With the Pasteur Institute and two Universities here there are far less tourists (and more reasonably-priced restaurants). Boulevard du Montparnasse has restaurants and clothing boutiques on it and it is the beginning of the Montparnasse neighborhood. South is the 14ème and the 15ème which were predominately residential but have really undergone a revival in the last ten years.
Boulevard Raspail, which runs northwest/southeast, is a very large street with grocery stores, shops and restaurants. Rue du Cherche-Midi and rue de Rennes run parallel to one another and are two main north/south streets running south from boulevard Saint-Germain all the way to Boulevard du Montparnasse. Both streets have many gastronomical offerings (I have listed some places in here). Do not try to walk the entire street, only sections at a time, as it is quite a distance.
On the streets rue Brea, rue Vavin, and rue Sainte-Beuve and the surrounding streets (north of boulevard Montparnasse and by boulevard Raspail), there are a number of small boutiques and good bistros as well as Michelin-starred restaurants.
19, rue Brea
(33) 01 43 27 08 80
Guy Martin’s small, chic restaurant with they play a video on the wall. The service is good as is the food.
4, rue d’Assas
(33) 01 42 22 00 11
Young chef Hélène Darroze artistically presents southwestern cuisine with a twist. There are two dining rooms the salon and the upstairs which is more casual and tapas style. Both rooms are good for special occasions.
La Closerie des Lilas
171, boulevard du Montparnasse
(33) 01 40 51 34 50
Restaurant Joséphine-Chez Dumonet
117 rue du Cherche-Midi
(33) 01 45 48 53 40
Traditional bistro food. Beautiful patio and restaurant with great food. Becoming a little touristy though.
6, rue de Chevreuse
(33) 01 43 27 43 27
17, rue Jules-Chaplain
(33) 01 43 54 28 03
Japanese food with sushi bar.
3, rue Sainte-Beuve
(33) 01 42 22 56 65
Very charming small brick-walled bistro. It has not been open long and the food is good. Casual atmosphere.
3, rue Sainte-Beuve
(33) 01 45 49 10 40
Very charming little bistro by Brit Chris Wright. Try his cheese creations (yum).
17 Rue Brea
There are only two to three tables here but it is my favorite. Enjoy there or take-away. The owners will give you great recommendations and serve you wonderful salami to go with your wine. There is an oyster bar next door too.
Le Bien Décidé
117, rue de Cherche-Midi
(33) 01 45 48 39 28
Actor, restauranteur, and winemaker Gerard Depardieu’s wine bar “the determined”
Bar de l’Hôtel Lutetia
45, Boulevard Raspail
(33) 01 49 54 46 46
Beautiful hotel and nice bar to have a drink and/or a snack by the piano
chocolatiers, pâtisseries, et thé
76 rue de Seine
(33) 01 43 26 85 77
One of several locations in Paris. Just beautiful, beautiful chocolate creations almost too pretty to eat…but do.
La Pâtisserie des Rêves
93 rue du Bac
(33) 01 42 84 00 82
Light, bright and modernly presented is a unique pastry shop with an inside-out eclair. There is another location in the 16ème.
52, rue Saint-Placide
(33) 01 45 48 13 83
81, rue de Seine
(33) 01 40 46 92 60
Italian gelato shop. SO good.
things for you and your home
Compaign Savon de Marseilles
3, rue Bréa
(33) 01 43 26 39 53
Vegetable soaps started in Marseille but there are boutiques all over France. Wonderful lotions, shampoos, home sprays made of natural products (rose, lavender, olive oil, grapefruit). Good gifts.
Tags: 6ème, boulangeries et thé, boulangeries in the 6th, Boulevard Saint Germain-des-Pres, caviste in the 6th, chocolatiers, hotels in the 6th, Jardins du Luxembourg, paris markets, paris restaurants, pasteries in the 6th, pâtisseries, restaurants in the 6th, Saint- Germain-des-Près, wine bars in the 6th