gâteau au yaourt (yogurt cake)

April 21st, 2012

A sweet cake for kids without too much sugar

vive le grignotage ! 
(long live snacking) 

tea time, goûter and “un peu sucré ou pas du tout”:
gâteau au yaourt (yogurt cake)

One day a friend and I were having tea. He works in the culinary television industry and like most Parisians, he is passionate about food and so our conversation revolved around food, of course. As he poured the tea, he shared with me a saying his grandmother had when she served tea. She would say, “une sucré ou pas du tout” (meaning, take one sugar or take nothing at all). Thinking of childrens’ fondness for sugar (and for snacking), his grandmother’s comment stuck with me and it inspired this week’s simple pleasure: gâteau au yaourt. Read the rest of this entry »

hungry no more: The Hunger Games menu

April 1st, 2012

 hungry no more: The Hunger Games Menu 

Peeta’s nut and raisin bread with Prim goat cheese

Rue dandelion salad with tracker jacker dressing

Katniss’s rabbit (or chicken) chasseur

 Roasted blackberries on a vanilla pod bow with vanilla seed ice cream
and fresh violets for Gale

Impossible for me to resist. I love food. I love books. The title is The Hunger Games. Coincidentally the book (part of a trilogy by Suzanne Collins) is a fad among tweens and teens and it was race with my eldest daughter to see who could finish the book first. She won. We both loved the book and the food references throughout sent my creativity into orbit. However, the power of this book goes beyond the ability to encourage a child’s love of literature, it can also encourage them to eat good food (unbeknownst to them), and as I quickly turned the pages, this week’s simple pleasure, a Hunger Games menu, was born.  

Happy Hunger Games and may the odds be ever in your favor.” 

Hunger Games Loaf of Bread with and arrow stuck in it

“Gale holds up a loaf of bread with an arrow stuck in it, and I laugh. It’s real bakery bread, not the flat dense loaves we make from our grain rations.” (page 7)

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hungry in love…Valentine’s Day Menu 2012

February 11th, 2012

Chocolate Tart Crust

hungry in love: a Valentine’s Day menu to make your heart skip a beat

 I often say that I know I am in love if the thought or sight of that person inspires moments of complete abandon of time and self. I use the example that if I were greeted at the airport by that person, even if the separation was brief, I would instinctively, and without hesitation, run to him, forgetting my surroundings, and the moment would only be interrupted by TSA asking me if the bags scattered twenty feet behind me, are mine. I tell my children that if you do not instinctively feel that way about the person with whom you have chosen to spend your time, then you did not choose correctly because anything less is existing; not living. I have done both. There is something to be said for following your instincts.

 

Harriet Van Horne wisely said that “cooking is like love [and that] [i]t should be entered into with abandon or not at all.” I agree and Saint Valentine’s Day is the perfect day to reinforce that notion. Inspired by thoughts of culinary seduction, the desire to spoil those we care for in a thoughtful, sincere way yet keeping in mind the practical demands of a mid-week busy schedule, this week’s simple pleasure is a Valentine’s Day menu that has a little something for everyone.  Read the rest of this entry »

chèvre and grapefruit panna cotta

February 4th, 2012

 

chèvre and grapefruit panna cotta

 Super Bowl parties and a touchdown dessert:
chèvre and grapefruit panna cotta

In my experience, both as a guest and as a caterer, there are two truths about Super Bowl parties. The first is that the food served primarily consists of hand to mouth heavy foods that involve meat, sauces, and dips (chili is allegedly the favorite). The second is that throughout the game, the guests tend to break off into groups and the division is generally gender based. The gorgeous weather and the markets filled with citrus inspired me to bring a little lightness to your Super Bowl plates with something all party guests will enjoy, no matter the room they end up in, and so chèvre and grapefruit panna cotta, is this week’s simple pleasure. Read the rest of this entry »

Pas de Deux: douillons aux pommes (apples in nightdresses)

December 16th, 2011

 

 

douillons aux pommes, apples in night dresses, dessert apples

Pas de Deux: douillons aux pommes (apples in nightdresses)

Like many people this time of year, one of the traditions in my family is to attend a performance of The Nutcracker.  In sum, it is a story of a young girl, Clara, who is given a nutcracker as a Christmas gift. The nutcracker turns into a Prince who takes Clara to the Kingdom of  Sweets where the Sugarplum Fairy and various treats (Spanish Chocolate, Peppermint Candy, etc.) perform for Clara (still in her nightdress) and the Prince. At the end, the Sugarplum Fairy and her Cavalier perform the Grand Pas de Deux (“steps of two”). As I watched the Pas de Deux, I thought of … food. The combination of a kingdom filled with dancing culinary specialities, Clara’s nightdress, and the “deux” (the collaboration of two) reminded me of the French classic dessert douillons aux pommes (apples in nightdresses). Inspired by the ballet, douiillons aux pommes is this week’s simple pleasure. Read the rest of this entry »

putting a little sugar in your bowl: chocolate covered toasted hazelnuts with a praliné crunch.

September 22nd, 2011

chocolate covered toasted hazelnuts with a praliné crunchputting a little sugar in your bowl: chocolate covered toasted hazelnuts with a praliné crunch.

 Pastry chefs will often tell you that the reason they chose the pastry over the savory path is the “last impression” factor.  The last impression factor is the ability to complete someone’s dining experience in a positive, memorable way. Even if a guest passes on dessert, it does not mean they will pass on a little something sweet if offered. Satisfying that sweet-craving does not have to be elaborate or unhealthy and that leads us to this week’s simple pleasure: chocolate covered toasted hazelnuts with a praliné crunch.

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Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

June 2nd, 2011

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée
(Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

stats:

yield: serves 6 (with compote leftover)

what you need:

11 ounces de-pitted fresh cherries
2 1/2 ounces superfine sugar
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon cherry brandy
3/4 teaspoon piment d’espelette
1/3 cup water

6 ounces of Abbaye de Belloc or another Ossau-Iraty Brébis de Pyrénées cheese

how to:

  • Prepare And Macerate Cherries.  Remove stems and pits from cherries.  Toss cherries with lemon juice, brandy, piment, and sugar and place in the refrigerator overnight.
  • Poach. Place macerated cherries in a saucepan over low heat.  Add water.  Poach cherries (between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit) until softened (about 10-15 minutes).  The cherries should collapse slightly but still retain but retain their shape.
  • Drain.  Remove cherries with a slotted spoon and set aside.  Turn the heat to medium-high and continue to cook the poaching liquid until you reach about 220 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer.  Remove from the heat and let the compote cool to room temperature.  Compote can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator.
  • Serve. Serve compote at room temperature with one ounce of cheese.

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

fruit is dessert

December 3rd, 2010

fruit is dessert

Children today do not consider fruit to be dessert.  To them, cake, ice cream, or a piece of pie is dessert and adults‘ ideas of what constitute dessert is no different.   However,  it is our routine and excess consumption of added sugar (sugar found in these commonly thought of desserts) that is ruining our health and the health of our children.  The American Heart Association (www.heart.org/HEARTORG) estimates that one of three American children is overweight or obese which is causing children to have high blood pressure, type 2 diabetes, and elevated blood cholesterol levels.  The statistics for adults are no better.

Are you consuming excess added sugar?  The AHA recommends that women consume only 24 grams (100 calories) of added sugar per day which is equal to 6 teaspoons (or 2 tablespoons). The recommendation for men is 36 grams (150 calories)  per day which is equal to 9 teaspoons (or 3 tablespoons). For reference,  a  3 1/2 ounce piece of chocolate cake has approximately 428 calories,  38 grams of sugar, 16 grams of fat, and 73 grams of carbohydrates.  While by no means am I advocating the elimination of chocolate cake, we need a reminder that fruit is dessert.

This week’s simple pleasure is pears poached in red wine and brewed chai tea.  Pears are in season and they store well.   They are nutrient dense with fiber, no saturated fat and no cholesterol, and a  3 1/2 ounce pear contains only 58 calories.  Although fruit is typically poached in simple syrup (equal amounts of granulated sugar and water) combined with spices and sometimes wine, my recipe is different.  The poaching liquid is a combination of the pears’ peels, brewed chai tea, red wine, reduced apple cider, spices, and only one tablespoon of agave nectar.

This dessert is simple to make.  It takes 20-30 minutes to poach the pears.  The pears can be served warm or at room temperature.  They can be served out of the pot you poached them in or out of a large bowl and spooned into shallow soup bowls with some of the poaching liquid.  You can also reduce the poaching liquid down to a syrup and spoon it over the pear.   As an added bonus, the pears can be stored in the refrigerator in their poaching liquid for a few days, making it a great dessert to do ahead of time and have on hand.   When you do store them, they become a deeper rose color going perfectly with the autumn season.

A quick note about the ingredients.  Use a quality chai tea preferably loose leaf (it was actually the delicious chai tea at Caffe Luxxe which inspired me to write this recipe).  The wine you use should be mild and fruity, I recommend something from the Loire Valley if you can find it.  When deciding how much money to spend on the wine my general rule is that you should use a good wine that you want to drink, but not one that you would sip and savor.  Lastly, use ripe pears (without soft spots or bruises) that are still firm but slightly give at the neck when pressed on.  Pears should not be purchased soft unless you are going to use them immediately (pears decline rapidly).  Rather, chose pears that are firm, put them in the refrigerator for a couple of days, then store them at room temperature in a brown paper bag.   Do not use Asian pears for this recipe because they are too juicy and crisp and their best attributes will be lost.  Rather, use European pears.  Bosc pears (with their elegant long necks) and  Seckel pears (also called sugar pears which are sweet and a perfect size) are my favorite.   However, I also use Comice pears (Doyenne du Comice) and d’Anjou pears (Beurré d’Anjou) although of the two I prefer the taste of the Comice for this recipe because of their winey overtones.   Simple.  Easy.  Delicious.  Dessert is served.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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persimmon and apple caramel with fleur de sel

November 24th, 2010

apple and persimmon caramel with fleur de sel

Easy and delicious.  Make the most of those special persimmons and apples you found at the farmer’s market.  This caramel is great to have on-hand and the perfect companion to a range of treats:  yogurt, vanilla ice cream, warmed pears, or formage blanc.  You can also brush the caramel on roasted fall vegetables (i.e., carrots or parsnips).  If you are worried you will run out, preserve it and it will last until next year when brown sugar persimmons and caville blanc d’hiver apples reappear.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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apple sorbet

November 12th, 2010

apple sorbet

This recipe is super simple and great to keep on hand in the freezer as a “go to” dessert.  It can be served alone, accompanying a baked dessert, or with a glass of  Calvados (apple brandy).

I have given examples of apples I like to use, but do not let my list limit your creativity.  With 15,000 varieties of apples, you have many options.

I wrote this recipe to take advantage of an apple’s color and vitamins.  First, the apples are simmered in apple juice with the skins on, giving the sorbet a pretty pink color and you the benefit of the vitamin C and antioxidant compounds concentrated in the apple’s peel.  Also, I add no sugar.  If you use fresh, ripe apples, you do not need it.   Lastly,  I grated some of the uncooked apple peel, creating an apple “zest” to mix in the sorbet.  You can leave the zest out if you choose, but I think the red flakes  (or green flakes as the case may be) make the sorbet visually interesting as well as add a little texture. Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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