Porcini Parmentier with crispy shallots and garlic and mushroom jus

December 16th, 2014

chef morgan a table

Porcini Parmentier 

with crispy shallots and garlic and mushroom jus

Hachis Parmentier or Parmentier is the French version of the English Shepherd’s Pie, to which people more often refer probably because it seems easier to pronounce. Any way you dish it, parmentier is comfort food. Hearty and warm. Perfect for the winter weather.

Let it snow (or rain). Read the rest of this entry »

falling leaves in Paris and autumn simplicity on your plate

November 30th, 2012

 

paris fall leaves man with dog

falling leaves in Paris and autumn simplicity on your plate:
scallop “macarons” with chanterelles and thyme

I have only seen it snow once in Paris and the snow didn’t stick. This year while Paris has seen a couple rainy and “see your breath” chilly days, overall it has been beautiful and 5 or 6 degrees Celsius warmer than usual for late November. Parisians have been out in droves, profiting from the gift of warmer weather. Although the holidays are approaching, right now it is not holiday decor which covers the city, but blankets of golden leaves. Watching Parisians play in the leaves (and the city workers haul mounds of the leaves to compost piles) I thought of the poem Gathering Leaves by Robert Frost where he talks about the lightness and the “harvest” of falling leaves. I wanted to “harvest” leaves. In particular, I wanted to capture  the color scheme and lightness of these golden leaves and the flavors of autumn and put it on a plate in a simply way. That thought inspired this week’s simple pleasure: seared scallop “macarons” with chanterelles and fresh thyme. 

scallop “macarons” with chanterelles and thyme

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seared scallop macarons with chanterelles and thyme

November 30th, 2012

 seared scallop macarons with chanterelles and thyme



seared scallop macarons with chanterelles and thyme

serves 4

what you need:

sauté
1-2 tablespoons unsalted butter
 cups sliced chanterelles and champignons de Paris (or white mushrooms) 
½ teaspoon fresh French thyme leaves
1 teaspoon minced fresh Italian parsley
⅛ cup dry white wine (or Grappa)
kosher salt (as needed)
freshly ground black pepper as needed

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spaghetti squash à la carbonara (spaghetti squash carbonara)

November 21st, 2012

squash carbonara with egg 

spaghetti squash à la carbonara (spaghetti squash carbonara)
(une carbonara pas commes les autres !)

(remember to read through the entire recipe to
understand the sequence of events. There are only a few steps, 
but its best to do them
in the suggested order)

 serves 6-8

what you need:

1 spaghetti squash (approx 2 pounds, 5 ounces)
fresh thyme sprigs Read the rest of this entry »

(my) steak au poivre vert

September 18th, 2012

 

 

steak au poivre 3

 

(my) steak au poivre vert 

stats:

serves 4
takes 25 minutes (10 minutes inactive)

what you need:

4  steaks (filets or new york cuts), organic and grass-fed beef
1½ tablespoons gros sel de Guérande (or sea salt) 
1½ tablespoons fresh French thyme leaves
2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon green (dried) peppercorns, crushed
1 teaspoon olive oil 
1 teaspoon brandy Read the rest of this entry »

hungry et moi and a perfectly cooked fish

July 25th, 2012

 

Chef Morgan cod steamed with thyme in parchment paper

hungry et moi and a perfectly cooked fish:
cabillaud avec thym en papillote (cod steamed with thyme in parchment paper)

Another dinner with “Hungry” (I introduced you to him in my March 24, 2012 post which discussed our first date and my love of nuts). Today we move from the culinary discussion of nuts to another heart-healthy protein: fish. If you have ever prepared dinner for a date (or perhaps had a date make dinner for you) you will appreciate this story. If you have prepared fish at home, or have wanted to, this post will be applicable to you as well. It was this dinner and a subsequent query on the very same subject – cooking fish – which inspired this week’s simple pleasure: cabillaud au thym en papillote (cod steamed with thyme in parchment paper). 

  Read the rest of this entry »

cabillaud au thym en papillote (steamed cod with thyme)

July 25th, 2012

cabillaud au thym en papillote (steamed cod with thyme)

cabillaud au thym en papillote (steamed cod with thyme)

serves 4

what you need:

4 beautiful, fresh cod fillets
kosher salt (as needed)
freshly ground black pepper (as needed)
olive oil (as needed)
4 handfuls of fresh thyme sprigs
4 rectangular sheets of parchment paper
kitchen twine (as needed) Read the rest of this entry »

venez avec moi à Gordes

July 10th, 2012

 

Chef Morgan Gordes

 picking cherries in the valley of the Gods: venez avec moi à Gordes 

 It is 9:30 p.m. and the sun is setting, but not so quickly. The sun is taking its time; everyone is. It is difficult to put an end to a day filled with Provençal sun, the calming smell of lavender, and the song of the complacent cicadas. As I write, I see expansive green valleys filled with cherry trees below me. The sound of pea-gravel crunching under the waiter’s feet (as he brings me a Châteauneuf-du-Pape and something warm for my shoulders) is only a momentary distraction from the twenty birds swirling above my head trying to get in their last flight before heading to bed. I am in Luberon. I have eaten and explored my way through the day: jambon with truffles; cherries I picked off the trees;  fougasse lush with salty olives and olive oil; wild boar sausage; fresh chèvre bathed in crushed lavender and honey, aïoli with perfectly steamed vegetables; rosés from nearby vineyards; hearty and robust reds from nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I think I found the land of the Gods and perhaps that is why the Romans had once claimed it as their own centuries ago. It am in Gordes and it is Gordes which inspired this week’s simple pleasure, cherries poached in fresh lavender and thyme. However, before you go there, come with me to one of the Luberon’s most beautiful villages: venez avec moi à Gordes. 

Chef Morgan Gordes Sunset

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ceries aux lavande et thym (cherries poached with lavender and thyme)

July 10th, 2012

Chef Morgan ceries aux lavande et thym (cherries poached with lavender and thyme)    

ceries aux lavande et thym
(cherries poached with lavender and thyme)

serves 6-8

what you need:

24-30  firm, ripe red cherries, stems removed (pits reserved)
2 cups water
2 tablespoons of lavender flowers (tied in cheesecloth)
4 tablespoons superfine sugar
2-3 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 piece of lemon peel

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duck, duck, tart: duck and kale savory tartlet with black chanterelles, fresh sage and thyme

November 11th, 2011

Duck Tart

duck, duck, tart: 
duck and kale savory tartlet with black chanterelles, fresh sage and thyme 

“Duck, duck, goose…” On a recent return from France I sat next to a man from Toulouse and our conversation began by discussing ducks and geese, although in the culinary-sense, not related to the childhood game. It was an natural topic of conversation because Toulouse is well-known for its ducks and geese and boasts regional specialities such as foie gras, cassoulet, and garbure. The temperature has finally caught up with the calendar and everyone is craving comfort food. My transatlantic conversation (and the fact that it is duck season) inspired this week’s simple pleasure: duck and kale savory tartlets with black chanterelles, fresh sage, and thyme. Comfort food, redefined. Read the rest of this entry »