“Newdorf” Salad
(Waldorf salad revisited)
rolling with lobster, California style
(and a litle French influence):
lobster “roll” California style
Lobster season. In America, lobster is generally enjoyed two ways: steamed and served with a bath of melted butter; or, if you are on the East Coast, in a “lobster roll”(lobster meat combined with melted butter and mayonnaise served in a roll). However, we cannot forget that it is also the season for apples and Asian pears (and in California, heirloom tomatoes and avocados are delicious right now).
It is in the nineties in southern California (and will be for some time). In this heat, hot, heavy food does not sound appealing. Sliced, Asian pears, apples, tomatoes and cucumbers all look like wheels and it seems to me that with these seasonal fruit wheels we can create our own “roll” that uses the West Coast bounty and is compatible with this summer weather. These thoughts inspired this week’s simple pleasure: lobster “roll” California style (mille-feuille de homard à la Californie).
lobster “roll” California style
(mille-feuille de homard à la Californie)
serves 4
what you need:
lobster
4 lobster tails
1 cup seafood stock
½ cup dry white wine
1 sachet (1 bay leaf, fresh Italian parsley, fresh cilantro, black peppercorns, 1 strip lime peel)
salad
1 ripe avocado, thinly sliced
1-2 apples, thinly sliced, seeds removed
1 Asian pear, thinly sliced, seeds removed
1-2 cucumbers, thinly sliced
1-2 tomatoes (preferably Green Zebra), sliced
1 shallot, thinly sliced
dressing
2 teaspoon gros sel de Guérande (or sea salt)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
⅓ cup olive oil
¼ cup avocado
¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon fresh minced Italian parsley
pinch piment d’espelette
freshly ground black pepper (as needed)
garnish
pinch piment d’espelette
pinch minced fresh Italian parsley Read the rest of this entry »
out of the salad bowl and turning up the heat:
Belgium endive au gratin
Rarely do Americans cook endives. Rather, we consume them raw, usually in a salad or as a passed hors d’œurves. However, sometimes you just have take things out of the salad bowl. I say that with great affection thinking of someone I met who primarily eats salads and rarely ventures out culinarily (at least on his own). This week’s simple pleasure goes outside the endive salad bowl and turns up the heat with a Belgium endive au gratin. Read the rest of this entry »
Pas de Deux: douillons aux pommes (apples in nightdresses)
Like many people this time of year, one of the traditions in my family is to attend a performance of The Nutcracker. In sum, it is a story of a young girl, Clara, who is given a nutcracker as a Christmas gift. The nutcracker turns into a Prince who takes Clara to the Kingdom of Sweets where the Sugarplum Fairy and various treats (Spanish Chocolate, Peppermint Candy, etc.) perform for Clara (still in her nightdress) and the Prince. At the end, the Sugarplum Fairy and her Cavalier perform the Grand Pas de Deux (“steps of two”). As I watched the Pas de Deux, I thought of … food. The combination of a kingdom filled with dancing culinary specialities, Clara’s nightdress, and the “deux” (the collaboration of two) reminded me of the French classic dessert douillons aux pommes (apples in nightdresses). Inspired by the ballet, douiillons aux pommes is this week’s simple pleasure. Read the rest of this entry »
persimmon, endive, apple, and beet salad with creamy dressing
stats:
serves 4
you need:
salad
2 Belgian endives, sliced sideways into 1” strips
1 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled and thinly sliced
1 medium golden beet, roasted and thinly sliced
1 Mutsu (or Crispin) apple, thinly sliced
1/4 cup walnuts pieces, toasted Read the rest of this entry »
Alsacian slaw with lardons and apples
stats:
serves 4-6
what you need:
1/2 pound (8 ounces) thinly sliced green cabbage
4 ounces diced granny smith apples Read the rest of this entry »
apple and persimmon caramel with fleur de sel
Easy and delicious. Make the most of those special persimmons and apples you found at the farmer’s market. This caramel is great to have on-hand and the perfect companion to a range of treats: yogurt, vanilla ice cream, warmed pears, or formage blanc. You can also brush the caramel on roasted fall vegetables (i.e., carrots or parsnips). If you are worried you will run out, preserve it and it will last until next year when brown sugar persimmons and caville blanc d’hiver apples reappear.
Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !
LM

braised pork and apples with melted radicchio and endive
This recipe is for those of you who want a project on a chilly Fall day. It is not hard, but it takes two days. However, do not let that scare you as the actual hands-on preparation requires only about two hours. This braise takes advantage of the apple season and it is a forgiving, easy braise to do.
The “hands-on” portion is simply three parts. Part One, you make the brine and soak the meat overnight in the refrigerator. Part Two, you give your braise its flavor by browning your vegetables and the meat (after removing it from the brine). Now you place everything in a Dutch oven or a crock-pot and let it braise for 8 hours on low heat and get on with your day. Part Three, make a sauce from the cooking liquid.
Because the apples and the pork tend to go to the sweet end of the spectrum, this dish really needs the radicchio and/or endive to balance it (but you can use cabbage, kale or make an arugula salad if you prefer). Generally I serve this dish with white cheddar buttermilk biscuits, but you can serve it with creamy white polenta or potatoes as well.
Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !
LM